The Organic Method
There is nothing mysterious or magical about organic gardening. It is simply a way of working with nature rather than against it. The objective is to recycle organic matter back into the soil, to maintain soil structure and fertility, and to encourage natural methods of pest and disease control, rather than relying on chemicals. It is, in fact, a lot less mysterious than the methods employed by the chemical grower.
Organic gardening is much more than just growing plants without chemical fertilizers and artificial sprays. It is a lifestyle. It recognizes that that the complex workings of nature have been successful at maintaining life for hundreds of millions of years, so the sound organic cultivating principals closely follow those found in the natural world. Do not be fooled into thinking that these principals will have a detrimental effect on yield and quality. In fact, you are likely to increase both, and in doing so, you will be providing an alternative habitat for wildlife, while being certain that the fruits and vegetables you have produced in your garden are safe, nutritious and chemical free. You will also be reducing the possibility of the harmful side effects from pesticides that are on the increase in infants and young developing adults.
Of the approximately 50,000 home pesticide poisonings each year, 17,000 are among children under the age of 4. Pesticides can remain active for years. They are poisonous and designed to kill.
The organic gardener uses a more constructive approach based on the awareness that there is a balance in the natural world which allows all species to co-exist without any one gaining dominance.
By growing a wide diversity of plants, the organic gardener will attract and build a miniature eco-system of pests and predators so that, provided the balance isn't upset by killing them with chemicals, no species will be allowed to build up to an unacceptable level.
The soil is teaming with millions of microorganisms which, in the course of their lives, will release those nutrients required for healthy plant growth from organic matter. So, rather than feeding the plants, the organic method is to feed the soil with natural materials and allow the plants to draw on that humic reservoir of nutrients as they need them. Plants grown this way will be stronger and more able to resist attacks by pests and diseases. Dr. Earth Pro-BioticTM is built on this sound principle. It works and lasts for years as it becomes a part of the living soil.
The Chemical Method
The purely chemical gardener uses soil simply as a means of anchoring plant roots and of holding artificial fertilizers to provide plant nutrients. This approach seems to have good results, but only in the short term.
In the long term, it has disastrous consequences. Because organic matter is not replaced, the soil organisms die out. Without them the soil structure breaks down and the soil becomes hard, airless and unproductive. Attempts at "force-feeding" plants result in soft, sappy growth, which is prone to attack by a host of pests and diseases.
When a plant is forced to grow with a chemical, high NPK fertilizer, it becomes weak. As plant cell walls are developing they do not have enough time to produce two important compounds, cellulose and lignins. These substances give the cell wall its structural integrity. As cells are forced to duplicate and grow quickly, the amount of cellulose and lignins are decreased, making the plant tissues much softer and more appealing for pests to attack. Think of it this way. It is like chewing on a piece of butter lettuce for us as opposed to chewing on a piece of wood. The same is true for insects. They prefer that tender soft growth.
In order to control insects, chemical pesticides are used, often with short term success. But, in killing the pests, pesticides also kill their natural predators. Eventually, the problem gets worse. Stronger and more poisonous pesticides have to be resorted to, and so it goes on. It is a vicious cycle that, once started, is difficult to break.
We at Dr. Earth will help you to grow all plants and control those insects naturally without the harmful side effects of chemical products. This is our lifestyle and contribution to all gardeners and our environment.
Clean Water, Clean Lakes
Water quality starts at home
Clean Water in our lakes, reservoirs and streams starts at home with basic practices you can incorporate into your lawn and garden care program. Water quality begins at home. There is a pipeline from your garden to a body of water. Regardless of where you live, you are a part of a watershed - a region where water flows across or under on its way to a lake, river, stream or ocean. Year-round lawn and garden care practices impact water quality even if you don't live near a body of water.
The problem: Water-soluble Phosphorous
Thanks to modern science, we now understand how the Phosphorous contained in fertilizers contributes to poor water quality. Phosphorous is the middle number on the ''NPK'' analysis printed on a fertilizer bag. It is present in all living things including the soil. Too much Phosphorous however, can disrupt nature's delicate balance. Runoff carries excess Phosphorous from fertilizers across lawns, roads and woods into ditches and streams which eventually run into reservoirs, lakes, bays or the ocean. Water soluble Phosphorous is ''junk food'' for the algae present in all these waterways.
Lawns - a big contributor to the problem
Lawns and plants are not usually able to absorb all of the water soluble fertilizers in chemical fertilizers, so some of it becomes the source of water pollution. As algae grow out of control (known as algae ''bloom'') it reduces the clarity and visibility of the water. This in turn reduces photosynthesis by oxygen-producing aquatic plants, therefore reducing the oxygen in the water. Some forms of blue-green algae can even be toxic. Repeated algae blooms can create green-colored lakes with low oxygen often resulting in fish kills or depleted water habitat for fish, wildlife and humans. Additionally, such conditions may degrade drinking water supplies and create other environmental nuisances. Many cities have put a ban on the use of chemical fertilizers in close proximity to lakes and rivers for this very reason.
The impact of algae
As watersheds are adapted from their natural state to residential, commercial or industrial uses, the amount of Phosphorous runoff into lakes may increase up to five to ten times. Algae-impacted lakes affect a community in several ways. Poor water quality significantly impacts the recreational value and use of the waterway and may reduce the value of the surrounding properties.
My personal concern
I am personally affected in this manner. I live on a 45 acre walnut farm which also serves as a testing ground for a wide variety of plants and trees. There is a good-sized creek running through the property. From time to time, I personally witness algae blooms in the creek's water as the neighboring farms apply chemical fertilizers and sprays to their crops. I enjoy fishing and eating a fresh-caught trout or bass once in a while, but I am genuinely concerned about the quality of the creek water which directly affects the quality of the fish in this creek. Of course, I only use organic fertilizers on my farm, but I cannot control what the other farmers use. This is a good illustration of the importance of using water-insoluble fertilizers such as Dr. Earth in our homes, farms and communities.
Pollution from runoff
Runoff of agro-chemicals during storm and irrigation events is a significant concern from the standpoint of surface water quality. The delivery of phosphorous and pesticides into the surface water via runoff may contribute acute or chronic eco-toxic effects. Numerous studies have documented that the transport of agro-chemicals via runoff to streams is facilitated primarily by sediment movement. It has been observed that concentrations of phosphorous and nitrogen are often richer in the deposited sediment than the source soil. Fine soil particles if not blended with coarse organic materials tend to move quickly during irrigation or runoff events. This becomes even more critical in times of heavy rainfall as sediment-laden runoff moves from the land to the waterways.
The solution
There is a Solution to phosphorous runoff. Dr. Earth organic fertilizers contain only water-insoluble forms of Phosphorous and will ensure that the fertilizer applied remains in the soil. The Phosphorous will not leach into the water table and travel into waterways. Dr. Earth contains Pro-BioticTM beneficial soil microbes and mycorrhizae. A vital mechanism for nutrient transfer by plants lies in the microbial process of the soil. The microbes' ability to breakdown organic matter quickly then release it as plant nutrients slowly and continuously over time increases yield and builds the humus reserve in the soil. Humus conversion increases the soils ability to absorb and retain water, further reducing runoff and fertilizer loss caused by water or other erosive forces.
Be part of the solution!
Apply fertilizers only when they are needed, during the proper season and in the correct amounts. Avoid getting the fertilizer on driveways, sidewalks and in storm drains. Above all, apply carefully, especially when using chemical fertilizers.
Don't let your fertilizers get into lakes, streams or ponds. On lawns, use a mulching mower and cut no more than the top third of the grass. Keep leaves, grass clippings and soil out of streets and gutters. Clean up after your pet, pet waste contains phosphorous. Prevent soil erosion by covering the ground with vegetation or mulch. Use Dr. Earth organic fertilizers to feed plants in your yard, garden and lawn to avoid applying water soluble Phosphorous.
We all share the same pool of water. Be conscientious in your gardening habits to ensure that future generations will enjoy a healthy, toxic-free environment. Poor water quality can impact the ability of fish and other wildlife to reproduce, feed and survive in the dynamic aquatic environment. It all starts in our own backyard and ends in a large body of water. Please act as a responsible steward of our environment.
Milo Lou Shammas
President and Chief Scientist
Dr. Earth, Inc.
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Organic single ingredient fertilizers:
Organic single ingredient fertilizers:
Alfalfa Meal: 2-1-2 Contains Magnesium as well as a fatty growth stimulant called triacetate.
Bat Guano: 10-3-1 A fast acting Nitrogen providing a great fertilizer for all plants.
Blood Meal: 13-0-0 Repels Deer. A Fast acting Nitrogen providing a great fertilizer for all plants.
Bone Meal: 3-15-0 A great root and fruit starter. A good source of organic phosphorous and calcium. Contains trace elements. Provides long term and short term benefits.
Cottonseed Meal: 5-2-1 Good for acid loving plants. Good for balancing Alkaline high pH in the soil.
Feather Meal: 12-0-0 A good steady source of Nitrogen over an extended period of time. Excellent for foliage plants, herbs, tropical plants, etc.
Fishbone Meal: 3-18-0 Good source of organic Phosphorous and Calcium. Good for feeding roots, buds, blooms and bulbs. High in trace elements.
Fish Meal: 9-4-1 A traditional source of primary nutrients. High in trace elements. Benefits all types of plants. Feeds over an extended period of time.
Kelp Meal: .6-.5-2.5 An excellent source of Potash. Good for vegetable gardens. Contains growth regulators, vitamins, minerals, hormones and enzymes.
Rock Phosphate: 0-2-0 Stimulates root growth. Good for phosphate
deficient soil.
Seaweed extract: 70 minerals, amino acids and nutrients, growth regulators that stimulate vigorous root development and plant growth as well as pest and disease tolerance
Lawn fertilizer: Ringer Lawn Restore 10-2-6 ingredients Hydrolyzed Poultry Feather Meal, Feather Meal, Bone Meal, Chilean Nitrate Soybean Meal, Potassium Sulfate, Proprietary Blend of Soil Microbes
Organic Blended fertilizers:
Bulb food: 3-15-2 fish bone meal, alfalfa meal, soft rock phosphate, feather meal and potassium sulfate.
Starter fertilizer: 2-4-2 alfalfa meal, fish bone meal, feather meal, potassium sulfate and seaweed extract.
Rose and flower fertilizer: 5-7-2 cottonseed meal, fish bone meal, fish meal, alfalfa meal, kelp meal, potassium sulfate, phosphate and seaweed extract.
Azalea, Camellia and Gardenia, Hydrangeas, evergreens fertilizer, all acid loving plants: 4-5-4 Cottonseed meal, fish bone meal, alfalfa meal, feather meal, kelp meal, potassium sulfate and seaweed extract.
Tomato, vegetable and herb fertilizer: 5-7-4 Fish bone meal, feather meal, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, phosphate, fish meal, potassium sulfate, humic acid, seaweed extract.
Flower garden fertilizer bedding plants: 4-8-4 Alfalfa meal, fish bone meal, feather meal potassium sulfate, phosphate, seaweed extract.
Fruit tree fertilizer: 7-4-2 Feather meal, fish bone meal, kelp meal, cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, rock phosphate, potassium sulfate, seaweed extract.
Palm, tropical and Hibiscus fertilizer: 6-4-6 feather meal, fish bone meal, potassium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, cottonseed meal, seaweed extract.
Here is a great basic recipe to use for your rose fertilizer. The amount is per medium-sized bush:
1 cup bone meal or superphosphate (0-20-0)
1 cup cottonseed meal
1/2 cup blood meal
1/2 cup fish meal
1/2 cup Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate)
To apply the fertilizer to your rosebushes, first water the area liberally. Then apply the mixture evenly on the ground, out to the perimeter of the bush. Rake it lightly into the top couple inches of soil, then water again.
For newly planted bare root rosebushes, care must be taken not to burn the new roots. For these bushes, wait until after the plant has produced its first blooms to apply fertilizer. Water well first, apply the fertilizer and water well again. You may now begin a regular feeding program, but take a little extra caution - use weaker strength fertilizers on a more frequent basis for a safe, adequate food supply.
Alfalfa Meal: 2-1-2 Contains Magnesium as well as a fatty growth stimulant called triacetate.
Bat Guano: 10-3-1 A fast acting Nitrogen providing a great fertilizer for all plants.
Blood Meal: 13-0-0 Repels Deer. A Fast acting Nitrogen providing a great fertilizer for all plants.
Bone Meal: 3-15-0 A great root and fruit starter. A good source of organic phosphorous and calcium. Contains trace elements. Provides long term and short term benefits.
Cottonseed Meal: 5-2-1 Good for acid loving plants. Good for balancing Alkaline high pH in the soil.
Feather Meal: 12-0-0 A good steady source of Nitrogen over an extended period of time. Excellent for foliage plants, herbs, tropical plants, etc.
Fishbone Meal: 3-18-0 Good source of organic Phosphorous and Calcium. Good for feeding roots, buds, blooms and bulbs. High in trace elements.
Fish Meal: 9-4-1 A traditional source of primary nutrients. High in trace elements. Benefits all types of plants. Feeds over an extended period of time.
Kelp Meal: .6-.5-2.5 An excellent source of Potash. Good for vegetable gardens. Contains growth regulators, vitamins, minerals, hormones and enzymes.
Rock Phosphate: 0-2-0 Stimulates root growth. Good for phosphate
deficient soil.
Seaweed extract: 70 minerals, amino acids and nutrients, growth regulators that stimulate vigorous root development and plant growth as well as pest and disease tolerance
Lawn fertilizer: Ringer Lawn Restore 10-2-6 ingredients Hydrolyzed Poultry Feather Meal, Feather Meal, Bone Meal, Chilean Nitrate Soybean Meal, Potassium Sulfate, Proprietary Blend of Soil Microbes
Organic Blended fertilizers:
Bulb food: 3-15-2 fish bone meal, alfalfa meal, soft rock phosphate, feather meal and potassium sulfate.
Starter fertilizer: 2-4-2 alfalfa meal, fish bone meal, feather meal, potassium sulfate and seaweed extract.
Rose and flower fertilizer: 5-7-2 cottonseed meal, fish bone meal, fish meal, alfalfa meal, kelp meal, potassium sulfate, phosphate and seaweed extract.
Azalea, Camellia and Gardenia, Hydrangeas, evergreens fertilizer, all acid loving plants: 4-5-4 Cottonseed meal, fish bone meal, alfalfa meal, feather meal, kelp meal, potassium sulfate and seaweed extract.
Tomato, vegetable and herb fertilizer: 5-7-4 Fish bone meal, feather meal, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, phosphate, fish meal, potassium sulfate, humic acid, seaweed extract.
Flower garden fertilizer bedding plants: 4-8-4 Alfalfa meal, fish bone meal, feather meal potassium sulfate, phosphate, seaweed extract.
Fruit tree fertilizer: 7-4-2 Feather meal, fish bone meal, kelp meal, cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, rock phosphate, potassium sulfate, seaweed extract.
Palm, tropical and Hibiscus fertilizer: 6-4-6 feather meal, fish bone meal, potassium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, cottonseed meal, seaweed extract.
Here is a great basic recipe to use for your rose fertilizer. The amount is per medium-sized bush:
1 cup bone meal or superphosphate (0-20-0)
1 cup cottonseed meal
1/2 cup blood meal
1/2 cup fish meal
1/2 cup Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate)
To apply the fertilizer to your rosebushes, first water the area liberally. Then apply the mixture evenly on the ground, out to the perimeter of the bush. Rake it lightly into the top couple inches of soil, then water again.
For newly planted bare root rosebushes, care must be taken not to burn the new roots. For these bushes, wait until after the plant has produced its first blooms to apply fertilizer. Water well first, apply the fertilizer and water well again. You may now begin a regular feeding program, but take a little extra caution - use weaker strength fertilizers on a more frequent basis for a safe, adequate food supply.
Flowers by month
Flowers, colors and gemstones by month:
January: Carnation associated with fascination, which is a fitting sentiment for the freshness of the new year. Color is red, stone is a garnet.
February: Iris represents faith, wisdom and hope. Color is purple, stone is amethyst.
March: Daffodil one of the first flowers of spring and a classic symbol of rebirth and rejuvenation. Color is blue, stone is aquamarine.
April: Daisy is associated with innocence. Color is white, stone is the diamond.
May: Lily represents purity Color is green, stone is emerald.
June: Rose, white, pearl
July: Larkspur is associated with light heartedness and levity. The color is red, stone is ruby.
August: Gladiolus, named after the sword of the gladiator, they carry a meaning of strength and sincerity. Color is pale green, stone is peridot.
September: Aster represents daintiness and love. Color is deep blue/indigo, stone is sapphire.
October: Marigold is associated with affection. Color is multi-colors, stone is opal.
November: Chrysanthemum represents cheerfulness. Color is yellow, stone is topaz.
December: Poinsettia symbolizes success and good cheer. Color is blue, stone is turquoise.
January: Carnation associated with fascination, which is a fitting sentiment for the freshness of the new year. Color is red, stone is a garnet.
February: Iris represents faith, wisdom and hope. Color is purple, stone is amethyst.
March: Daffodil one of the first flowers of spring and a classic symbol of rebirth and rejuvenation. Color is blue, stone is aquamarine.
April: Daisy is associated with innocence. Color is white, stone is the diamond.
May: Lily represents purity Color is green, stone is emerald.
June: Rose, white, pearl
July: Larkspur is associated with light heartedness and levity. The color is red, stone is ruby.
August: Gladiolus, named after the sword of the gladiator, they carry a meaning of strength and sincerity. Color is pale green, stone is peridot.
September: Aster represents daintiness and love. Color is deep blue/indigo, stone is sapphire.
October: Marigold is associated with affection. Color is multi-colors, stone is opal.
November: Chrysanthemum represents cheerfulness. Color is yellow, stone is topaz.
December: Poinsettia symbolizes success and good cheer. Color is blue, stone is turquoise.
Testing your soil's PH
Testing your soil’s pH
For a better lawn or garden, start with a soil test. Testing your soil allows you to:
Select the right plants for your garden—A pH test, for example, determines how acid/alkaline your soil is. 7 is neutral. Southern western United States’ soil is typically 7.5-8, which is alkaline high.
Remedy your soil problems by determining what key elements are missing from your soil.
Monitor nutrients—Nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium are all needed for plant growth, color and blooming.
Soil test kits are available at most garden centers. These kits allow you to get an immediate analysis of your soil's pH.
Your local agricultural extension office will also test your soil sample for pH and nutrient levels (usually for a small fee). Most offices provide you with a sterile container for your sample and a form to answer questions about your garden, where you live and the plants you wish to grow. The soil analysis usually takes a few weeks to get back to you. The analysis includes detailed results and suggested amendments specific to your region. Ventura County office is 805-645-1451. L.A is 562-622-0433.
How to test the soil
You will need:
Clean bucket
Garden trowel
Clean container
Newspaper
Steps:
Thoroughly clean the tools you are using to collect the soil sample.
In the planting area, dig five holes 6-8" deep.
Take a 1/2" slice along the side of a hole and place it in the bucket. Repeat this process for all holes.
Collect samples from different areas that will be growing similar plants.
Mix the soil in the bucket. Spread the soil on a newspaper to dry out. Collect a pint for your sample.
Helpful Hints:
The best time to test your soil is in the late fall or early spring. This gives you the time to make adjustments before you plant your garden, since soil corrections may take a few months to become effective.
Wet soil can give a false test reading. Be sure to take the sample when the soil is fairly dry. You may want to check your soil more than once to verify your results.
#What do the results mean?
Result Correction
High pH Soils with a high pH are alkaline. To lower pH, add sulfur into the soil surrounding the existing plants or into new planting beds.
Low pH A low pH reading is an indication that your soil is too acidic. To correct the problem, add lime to the soil and mix well.
Low nitrogen This is a common problem with soil. Use synthetic or natural, nitrogen-rich fertilizers according to the rate suggested by the manufacturer.
High nitrogen High nitrogen levels are usually the result of soils that have been over-fertilized. Water the soil well and stop adding fertilizer for several months.
Low phosphorus Mix superphosphate or bone meal into your garden soil, making sure to mix these amendments into the soil thoroughly.
High phosphorous This problem is usually caused by too much high-phosphate fertilizer. Do not use phosphorous-rich fertilizer for two years, and grow an abundance of plants to use up the excess.
Low potassium Work in potash or wood ashes. Avoid using wood ashes around acid-loving plants because these are alkaline and may diminish the growth of the plants.
High potassium Add nitrogen and phosphorous to help balance the soil, but do not add potassium-rich fertilizers or soil amendments for two to three years.
Poor drainage Heavy clay soil tends to drain poorly. Thoroughly mix in peat moss, compost or other organic materials to help loosen the soil.
Too much drainage Sandy soil drains too quickly to hold necessary nutrients. Add organic materials to remedy soil that drains too quickly, just as you would for poor drainage conditions.
pH What to do
6.0
Apply 20 pounds of lime per 1000 square feet
5.5
Apply 25 pounds of lime per 1000 square feet. At least a month later, add another 20 pounds of lime per square feet.
7.5 Apply 10 pounds of gardener's sulfur per 1000 square feet
8.0
Apply 20 pounds of gardener's sulfur per 1000 square feet
8.5
Apply 40 pounds of gardener's sulfur per 1000 square feet
For a better lawn or garden, start with a soil test. Testing your soil allows you to:
Select the right plants for your garden—A pH test, for example, determines how acid/alkaline your soil is. 7 is neutral. Southern western United States’ soil is typically 7.5-8, which is alkaline high.
Remedy your soil problems by determining what key elements are missing from your soil.
Monitor nutrients—Nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium are all needed for plant growth, color and blooming.
Soil test kits are available at most garden centers. These kits allow you to get an immediate analysis of your soil's pH.
Your local agricultural extension office will also test your soil sample for pH and nutrient levels (usually for a small fee). Most offices provide you with a sterile container for your sample and a form to answer questions about your garden, where you live and the plants you wish to grow. The soil analysis usually takes a few weeks to get back to you. The analysis includes detailed results and suggested amendments specific to your region. Ventura County office is 805-645-1451. L.A is 562-622-0433.
How to test the soil
You will need:
Clean bucket
Garden trowel
Clean container
Newspaper
Steps:
Thoroughly clean the tools you are using to collect the soil sample.
In the planting area, dig five holes 6-8" deep.
Take a 1/2" slice along the side of a hole and place it in the bucket. Repeat this process for all holes.
Collect samples from different areas that will be growing similar plants.
Mix the soil in the bucket. Spread the soil on a newspaper to dry out. Collect a pint for your sample.
Helpful Hints:
The best time to test your soil is in the late fall or early spring. This gives you the time to make adjustments before you plant your garden, since soil corrections may take a few months to become effective.
Wet soil can give a false test reading. Be sure to take the sample when the soil is fairly dry. You may want to check your soil more than once to verify your results.
#What do the results mean?
Result Correction
High pH Soils with a high pH are alkaline. To lower pH, add sulfur into the soil surrounding the existing plants or into new planting beds.
Low pH A low pH reading is an indication that your soil is too acidic. To correct the problem, add lime to the soil and mix well.
Low nitrogen This is a common problem with soil. Use synthetic or natural, nitrogen-rich fertilizers according to the rate suggested by the manufacturer.
High nitrogen High nitrogen levels are usually the result of soils that have been over-fertilized. Water the soil well and stop adding fertilizer for several months.
Low phosphorus Mix superphosphate or bone meal into your garden soil, making sure to mix these amendments into the soil thoroughly.
High phosphorous This problem is usually caused by too much high-phosphate fertilizer. Do not use phosphorous-rich fertilizer for two years, and grow an abundance of plants to use up the excess.
Low potassium Work in potash or wood ashes. Avoid using wood ashes around acid-loving plants because these are alkaline and may diminish the growth of the plants.
High potassium Add nitrogen and phosphorous to help balance the soil, but do not add potassium-rich fertilizers or soil amendments for two to three years.
Poor drainage Heavy clay soil tends to drain poorly. Thoroughly mix in peat moss, compost or other organic materials to help loosen the soil.
Too much drainage Sandy soil drains too quickly to hold necessary nutrients. Add organic materials to remedy soil that drains too quickly, just as you would for poor drainage conditions.
pH What to do
6.0
Apply 20 pounds of lime per 1000 square feet
5.5
Apply 25 pounds of lime per 1000 square feet. At least a month later, add another 20 pounds of lime per square feet.
7.5 Apply 10 pounds of gardener's sulfur per 1000 square feet
8.0
Apply 20 pounds of gardener's sulfur per 1000 square feet
8.5
Apply 40 pounds of gardener's sulfur per 1000 square feet
Insect Symbolism in the Garden
Insect Symbolism in the Garden
One of my favorites, the hummingbird, symbolizes timeless joy and the nectar of life. It’s a symbol for accomplishing that which seems impossible and will teach you how to find the miracle of joyful living from your own life circumstances. They teach us about self discovery and healing.
A butterfly symbolizes long life in the Chinese culture. In Japan, they symbolize marital bliss. We are all small and appear to the same, like the caterpillar, but as we grow older, our true beauty shows. Traditionally, the butterfly symbolizes the metamorphosis of our soul.
The dragonfly symbolizes the two realms, starting with water and moving to the air with maturity. The are often depicted representing new light and joy as we let go of past illusions that limit our growing and changing.
Frogs mean good fortune, happiness and great friendships. They teach a connection with the earth and everything on it and the magic and beauty behind it all. Because of its famous croaking voice, it can also teach how to use your voice to stir emotions. In some cultures though, the frog/toad represents evil spirits.
Animal -Speak- The Spiritual & Magical Powers of Creatures Great and Small by: Ted Andrews
One of my favorites, the hummingbird, symbolizes timeless joy and the nectar of life. It’s a symbol for accomplishing that which seems impossible and will teach you how to find the miracle of joyful living from your own life circumstances. They teach us about self discovery and healing.
A butterfly symbolizes long life in the Chinese culture. In Japan, they symbolize marital bliss. We are all small and appear to the same, like the caterpillar, but as we grow older, our true beauty shows. Traditionally, the butterfly symbolizes the metamorphosis of our soul.
The dragonfly symbolizes the two realms, starting with water and moving to the air with maturity. The are often depicted representing new light and joy as we let go of past illusions that limit our growing and changing.
Frogs mean good fortune, happiness and great friendships. They teach a connection with the earth and everything on it and the magic and beauty behind it all. Because of its famous croaking voice, it can also teach how to use your voice to stir emotions. In some cultures though, the frog/toad represents evil spirits.
Animal -Speak- The Spiritual & Magical Powers of Creatures Great and Small by: Ted Andrews
Pruning in the dormant season
Reasons for pruning in the dormant season:
- The bareness of deciduous shrubs and trees shows us the crossing branches and the errant, wayward shoots just begging to be clipped.
- Dead and diseased twigs and limbs need removing to keep the rest of the plant healthy.
- Sometimes we need to limit the height and width of deciduous shrubs and small trees.
- Fruit trees must be correctly pruned to get the maximum fruit production next summer.
- Many deciduous shrubs need pruning to boost flower production as their flowers are produced mainly on the new wood sent out next spring.
- We prune or trim bonsai, hedges, topiaries or overgrown evergreen shrubs to maintain shape or heights. Winter, when most plants are dormant, is an ideal time to do this.
Suggestions for pruning common dormant fruit trees:
- Apples. These trees produce a crop on thick, stubby fruiting spurs that will produce a crop for about twenty years. Remove suckers and water sprouts and any crossing branches. You want to keep the center open so thin out enough new growth to achieve this goal. Pruning apple trees goes quickly and easily, just don't harm the fruiting spurs.
- Apricots. These fast-growing, vigorous trees need heavy pruning for good fruit production. Most fruit is found on short spurs that form one year and bear fruit the next. These spurs will bear fruit for about three years. Each year remove old, worn out unproductive branches, cutting back to younger, vigorous branches bearing fruiting spurs or to new branches that will produce fruiting spurs this year.
- Cherries. The fruit on these trees are produced on long-living spurs and you won't need to prune for fruit production. Remove weak growth and any branches that crowd the center, keeping the center of these upright trees open.
- Fig. Fig trees are very accommodating as they will produce a crop with no dormant season pruning, but will produce more if you prune out the weak and unnecessary growth in the canopy, keeping the center open to let in light. You can cut back branches to keep the tree in bounds or limit the height or spread.
- Peaches and nectarines. These fast-growing fruit trees need heavy pruning to produce those luscious fruits. They will produce crops if not pruned but on branches that are further away from the center. The weight of the fruit will break branches. Each year's new growth produces fruit the following season. Either remove two-thirds of the wood of the fruiting branches or remove two-thirds of the branches to keep the tree in suitable size and productive. Yes, I said TWO-THIRDS! Most home gardeners are reluctant to take off that much growth. But if you cut off two-thirds of each branch you will have wonderful crops of delicious fruit next summer.
- Pears. Annual pruning of established, mature trees consists of removing any weak, diseased, dead or broken branches and any branches or shoots that crowd the center, not letting light to it. To control the height cut back the upper branches to an outward-pointing side branch. Refrain from cutting back the lower branches.
- Persimmon. The wood of the persimmon tree is brittle and a heavy crop can break branches. Remove dead wood and watersprouts. Thin out crowded twigs and branches in the crown.
- Plums and prunes. These trees produce fruit on spurs that during the dormant season the spurs appear as clusters of buds flush with the stems. Many plums produce several upright stems that need thinning out each year, keeping the center of the tree open and leaving branches that can bear the weight of the fruit. European plums need relatively little pruning whereas Japanese plums are very vigorous in their growth, producing many long shoots each year and need more pruning.
Suggestions for pruning common flowering deciduous shrubs:
- Buddleia davidii, the "Butterfly Bush." This shrub grows prodigiously each summer, producing vast amounts of growth and masses of flowers that butterflies flock to. You have to be somewhat brutal in pruning this popular shrub. Cut out the weakest stems and then cut the remaining strong stems back by two-thirds. Yes, 2/3! Next summer you will again have those masses of flowers.
- Hydrangea macrophylla, the more common garden type. Many gardeners prune their hydrangeas by removing the spent blooms in the summer. These flowers are produced on stems from the previous year. After the flowers are cut back, new growth will begin lower on the stems. Cut the flower stems back to the strongest pair of new shoots or to a pair of buds that will send out stems where you want them. Make the cuts leaving two pairs of buds that grow from the ground or two pairs of buds on the side branches. Thus, you will be directing the growth and shape of your hydrangea, possibly filling in some blank spots. When your hydrangea has lost its leaves, remove dead, crossing, broken or crowded branches. If you had not pruned back your hydrangea in summer as described above then follow the guidelines above. The challenge is determining the stems that bore flowers last season.
- Punica granatum (Flowering Pomegranate). The beautiful flowers that this shrub or small tree produces are breathtaking. To keep the flowering pomegranate producing blooms simply thin out very old and weak stems and any crowding branches. If grown as a small tree, remove any side branches on the trunk and any suckers arising from the base.
- Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus). Thin out any crowded stems and remove any that are dead, broken, diseased and older non-productive stems. To keep this aggressive grower in bounds, cut back the stems to lateral branches or growth buds.
- Spiraea There are two distinct species of Spiraea, the familiar "Bridal Wreath" type (Spiraea prunifolia) that blooms in early spring with white flowers cascading down arching branches or the shrubby type (Spiraea japonica, with its very many named varieties) with clusters of pink flowers in summer. Prune the "Bridal Wreath" Spiraea after it blooms. Do not cut back those with arching stems; you'll ruin the graceful form. Instead cut off a few of the older stems to the ground each year. These will be replaced with new ones that will bear new flowers two summers away. Prune Spiraea japonica now. Summer-blooming Spiraea japonica needs heavy pruning. Thin out older stems and head back (cut off) the younger ones to as few as two buds. This will give you larger flower clusters next summer on a smaller plant.
Deciduous shrubs and small trees that are pruned AFTER they flower:
It is tempting to take loppers and pruning shears to all dormant deciduous plants, but these shrubs and small trees are pruned after the flowers are gone.
- Cornus florida (flowering dogwood)
- Flowering Quince
- Flowering Peach
- Forsythia
- Jasmine
- Kerria japonica
- Lilacs
- Mock orange
- Ribes (Gooseberries)
- Spiraea japonica
- Weigela
Deciduous common small trees:
Usually these small trees can be easily pruned with a pole pruner or long-handled lopping shears.
- Crataegus (Washington Hawthorn). These small trees are naturally twiggy and dense in their growth habits. They need little pruning. Prune only to open up the tree to allow wind to go through. Cut off any dead or diseased twigs and branches. Remove all growth that appears along the trunk.
- Flowering plum. Cut out any crossing and inward-growing branches and extra-vigorous vertical branches. As these trees branch densely, thin their centers frequently. Avoid cutting back branches to limit the size of flowering plums as this will cause profuse sprouting.
- Lagerstroemia indica (Crape Myrtle). Remove all dead and broken branches and any twiggy or crossing stems. Cut back any too-long branch to a lateral. Cut back last year's new growth by 12-18 inches to promote flowering.
- Malus (Flowering crabapple). It is better to prune these trees after blooming but it does stimulate less new growth on the tree. In the dormant season prune out weak, thin, crowding branches and any that cross over the center.
- Weeping flowering cherry. Prune off any too-vigorous shoots to keep the tree in balance and promote branching. Prune out any diseased, weak or dead branches or twigs. If desired, remove lower limbs to afford room to walk under the tree.
Mature Shade trees.
Pruning these is best left for the professionals. Most home gardeners do not possess the tools needed nor have the skills to tackle the job.
- The bareness of deciduous shrubs and trees shows us the crossing branches and the errant, wayward shoots just begging to be clipped.
- Dead and diseased twigs and limbs need removing to keep the rest of the plant healthy.
- Sometimes we need to limit the height and width of deciduous shrubs and small trees.
- Fruit trees must be correctly pruned to get the maximum fruit production next summer.
- Many deciduous shrubs need pruning to boost flower production as their flowers are produced mainly on the new wood sent out next spring.
- We prune or trim bonsai, hedges, topiaries or overgrown evergreen shrubs to maintain shape or heights. Winter, when most plants are dormant, is an ideal time to do this.
Suggestions for pruning common dormant fruit trees:
- Apples. These trees produce a crop on thick, stubby fruiting spurs that will produce a crop for about twenty years. Remove suckers and water sprouts and any crossing branches. You want to keep the center open so thin out enough new growth to achieve this goal. Pruning apple trees goes quickly and easily, just don't harm the fruiting spurs.
- Apricots. These fast-growing, vigorous trees need heavy pruning for good fruit production. Most fruit is found on short spurs that form one year and bear fruit the next. These spurs will bear fruit for about three years. Each year remove old, worn out unproductive branches, cutting back to younger, vigorous branches bearing fruiting spurs or to new branches that will produce fruiting spurs this year.
- Cherries. The fruit on these trees are produced on long-living spurs and you won't need to prune for fruit production. Remove weak growth and any branches that crowd the center, keeping the center of these upright trees open.
- Fig. Fig trees are very accommodating as they will produce a crop with no dormant season pruning, but will produce more if you prune out the weak and unnecessary growth in the canopy, keeping the center open to let in light. You can cut back branches to keep the tree in bounds or limit the height or spread.
- Peaches and nectarines. These fast-growing fruit trees need heavy pruning to produce those luscious fruits. They will produce crops if not pruned but on branches that are further away from the center. The weight of the fruit will break branches. Each year's new growth produces fruit the following season. Either remove two-thirds of the wood of the fruiting branches or remove two-thirds of the branches to keep the tree in suitable size and productive. Yes, I said TWO-THIRDS! Most home gardeners are reluctant to take off that much growth. But if you cut off two-thirds of each branch you will have wonderful crops of delicious fruit next summer.
- Pears. Annual pruning of established, mature trees consists of removing any weak, diseased, dead or broken branches and any branches or shoots that crowd the center, not letting light to it. To control the height cut back the upper branches to an outward-pointing side branch. Refrain from cutting back the lower branches.
- Persimmon. The wood of the persimmon tree is brittle and a heavy crop can break branches. Remove dead wood and watersprouts. Thin out crowded twigs and branches in the crown.
- Plums and prunes. These trees produce fruit on spurs that during the dormant season the spurs appear as clusters of buds flush with the stems. Many plums produce several upright stems that need thinning out each year, keeping the center of the tree open and leaving branches that can bear the weight of the fruit. European plums need relatively little pruning whereas Japanese plums are very vigorous in their growth, producing many long shoots each year and need more pruning.
Suggestions for pruning common flowering deciduous shrubs:
- Buddleia davidii, the "Butterfly Bush." This shrub grows prodigiously each summer, producing vast amounts of growth and masses of flowers that butterflies flock to. You have to be somewhat brutal in pruning this popular shrub. Cut out the weakest stems and then cut the remaining strong stems back by two-thirds. Yes, 2/3! Next summer you will again have those masses of flowers.
- Hydrangea macrophylla, the more common garden type. Many gardeners prune their hydrangeas by removing the spent blooms in the summer. These flowers are produced on stems from the previous year. After the flowers are cut back, new growth will begin lower on the stems. Cut the flower stems back to the strongest pair of new shoots or to a pair of buds that will send out stems where you want them. Make the cuts leaving two pairs of buds that grow from the ground or two pairs of buds on the side branches. Thus, you will be directing the growth and shape of your hydrangea, possibly filling in some blank spots. When your hydrangea has lost its leaves, remove dead, crossing, broken or crowded branches. If you had not pruned back your hydrangea in summer as described above then follow the guidelines above. The challenge is determining the stems that bore flowers last season.
- Punica granatum (Flowering Pomegranate). The beautiful flowers that this shrub or small tree produces are breathtaking. To keep the flowering pomegranate producing blooms simply thin out very old and weak stems and any crowding branches. If grown as a small tree, remove any side branches on the trunk and any suckers arising from the base.
- Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus). Thin out any crowded stems and remove any that are dead, broken, diseased and older non-productive stems. To keep this aggressive grower in bounds, cut back the stems to lateral branches or growth buds.
- Spiraea There are two distinct species of Spiraea, the familiar "Bridal Wreath" type (Spiraea prunifolia) that blooms in early spring with white flowers cascading down arching branches or the shrubby type (Spiraea japonica, with its very many named varieties) with clusters of pink flowers in summer. Prune the "Bridal Wreath" Spiraea after it blooms. Do not cut back those with arching stems; you'll ruin the graceful form. Instead cut off a few of the older stems to the ground each year. These will be replaced with new ones that will bear new flowers two summers away. Prune Spiraea japonica now. Summer-blooming Spiraea japonica needs heavy pruning. Thin out older stems and head back (cut off) the younger ones to as few as two buds. This will give you larger flower clusters next summer on a smaller plant.
Deciduous shrubs and small trees that are pruned AFTER they flower:
It is tempting to take loppers and pruning shears to all dormant deciduous plants, but these shrubs and small trees are pruned after the flowers are gone.
- Cornus florida (flowering dogwood)
- Flowering Quince
- Flowering Peach
- Forsythia
- Jasmine
- Kerria japonica
- Lilacs
- Mock orange
- Ribes (Gooseberries)
- Spiraea japonica
- Weigela
Deciduous common small trees:
Usually these small trees can be easily pruned with a pole pruner or long-handled lopping shears.
- Crataegus (Washington Hawthorn). These small trees are naturally twiggy and dense in their growth habits. They need little pruning. Prune only to open up the tree to allow wind to go through. Cut off any dead or diseased twigs and branches. Remove all growth that appears along the trunk.
- Flowering plum. Cut out any crossing and inward-growing branches and extra-vigorous vertical branches. As these trees branch densely, thin their centers frequently. Avoid cutting back branches to limit the size of flowering plums as this will cause profuse sprouting.
- Lagerstroemia indica (Crape Myrtle). Remove all dead and broken branches and any twiggy or crossing stems. Cut back any too-long branch to a lateral. Cut back last year's new growth by 12-18 inches to promote flowering.
- Malus (Flowering crabapple). It is better to prune these trees after blooming but it does stimulate less new growth on the tree. In the dormant season prune out weak, thin, crowding branches and any that cross over the center.
- Weeping flowering cherry. Prune off any too-vigorous shoots to keep the tree in balance and promote branching. Prune out any diseased, weak or dead branches or twigs. If desired, remove lower limbs to afford room to walk under the tree.
Mature Shade trees.
Pruning these is best left for the professionals. Most home gardeners do not possess the tools needed nor have the skills to tackle the job.
Feng Shui Chi and Meditation
Feng Shui, Ch'i and Meditation
There are many ways to make our lives more tranquil, but few are easier, cheaper and more fulfilling than the ancient Chinese art of meditation.
Fountains of water can heighten the tranquil and calming affects of good meditation.
First , a few definitions: Ch’i is our cosmic breath. It is the energy within the air around us, the energy used by all living things upon the earth. This energy is a positive energy and a force of life that penetrates throughout the earth and all life. Ch’i means “breath” it is the force by which all trees, plants, streams, rivers and even volcanoes are created. Positive Ch’i is created by the gentle flow of water. Feng Shui in Chinese means wind and water. There is an art to Feng Shui in which the Chinese use placement and balance in nature to enhance our environment. This art dates back at least 5,000 years. How we use this balance of Feng Shui is very important in creating the best possible Ch’i energy in our environment.
According to the ancient Chinese, the Ch’i in our lives can be enhanced through meditation and a chosen healthy environment. Good Ch’i in your home that flows smoothly, improves and enhances the Ch’i of the humans in that home. To create a healthy environment in the home, a Ba-Gua chart is helpful in the placing of furniture in the home, however, here we would like to focus on the art of meditation to help our environmental and personal Ch’i.
In meditation, the use of a fountain with trickling, soothing water facilitates the activation of good Ch’i. Fountains are a microcosm of Ch’i, offering protection and strength against any bad Ch’i in your environment. In business, the Ch’i from water fountains encourages profits, but here we look for the calming, soothing ch’i of meditation.
First, the best position for a small fountain is in the southeast or east corner of the room in which you will meditate. Placed in this area, the fountain will favor relationships, communication and creativity. A fountain with a floating or spinning sphere is particularly supportive for meditation. Crystal or natural stone agate spheres have been used as ritual objects by the Chinese for thousands of years. A crystal sphere converts light into power and energy, and while spinning in the flowing water of a fountain will fill the room and home with powerful, positive ch’i. These fountains and sphere are excellent with the use of the Tratak technique of meditation.
To use the technique of Tratak meditation, you sit about 3 feet from the flowing fountain of water and gaze at the sphere in the water. Slowly regulate your breathing to even breaths, and begin to stare or gaze at the sphere. Relax, and blink as little as possible, don’t strain to see the sphere, but just look steadily and try to dismiss all thoughts from your mind except for the spinning sphere, while listening to the trickle of water. After about one minute, you can slowly close your eyes and keep focusing on the spinning sphere within your mind. Visualize the spinning sphere for as long as possible, breathing in even breaths slowly, if the image vanishes, just slowly open your eyes, focus again on the sphere and sound of the water, and repeat back to meditation.
If your fountain has no stones, just place a statue, dragon or tortoise in the water to restrain the positive Ch’i.
There are many ways to make our lives more tranquil, but few are easier, cheaper and more fulfilling than the ancient Chinese art of meditation.
Fountains of water can heighten the tranquil and calming affects of good meditation.
First , a few definitions: Ch’i is our cosmic breath. It is the energy within the air around us, the energy used by all living things upon the earth. This energy is a positive energy and a force of life that penetrates throughout the earth and all life. Ch’i means “breath” it is the force by which all trees, plants, streams, rivers and even volcanoes are created. Positive Ch’i is created by the gentle flow of water. Feng Shui in Chinese means wind and water. There is an art to Feng Shui in which the Chinese use placement and balance in nature to enhance our environment. This art dates back at least 5,000 years. How we use this balance of Feng Shui is very important in creating the best possible Ch’i energy in our environment.
According to the ancient Chinese, the Ch’i in our lives can be enhanced through meditation and a chosen healthy environment. Good Ch’i in your home that flows smoothly, improves and enhances the Ch’i of the humans in that home. To create a healthy environment in the home, a Ba-Gua chart is helpful in the placing of furniture in the home, however, here we would like to focus on the art of meditation to help our environmental and personal Ch’i.
In meditation, the use of a fountain with trickling, soothing water facilitates the activation of good Ch’i. Fountains are a microcosm of Ch’i, offering protection and strength against any bad Ch’i in your environment. In business, the Ch’i from water fountains encourages profits, but here we look for the calming, soothing ch’i of meditation.
First, the best position for a small fountain is in the southeast or east corner of the room in which you will meditate. Placed in this area, the fountain will favor relationships, communication and creativity. A fountain with a floating or spinning sphere is particularly supportive for meditation. Crystal or natural stone agate spheres have been used as ritual objects by the Chinese for thousands of years. A crystal sphere converts light into power and energy, and while spinning in the flowing water of a fountain will fill the room and home with powerful, positive ch’i. These fountains and sphere are excellent with the use of the Tratak technique of meditation.
To use the technique of Tratak meditation, you sit about 3 feet from the flowing fountain of water and gaze at the sphere in the water. Slowly regulate your breathing to even breaths, and begin to stare or gaze at the sphere. Relax, and blink as little as possible, don’t strain to see the sphere, but just look steadily and try to dismiss all thoughts from your mind except for the spinning sphere, while listening to the trickle of water. After about one minute, you can slowly close your eyes and keep focusing on the spinning sphere within your mind. Visualize the spinning sphere for as long as possible, breathing in even breaths slowly, if the image vanishes, just slowly open your eyes, focus again on the sphere and sound of the water, and repeat back to meditation.
If your fountain has no stones, just place a statue, dragon or tortoise in the water to restrain the positive Ch’i.
Creating a garden that attracts birds, butterflies and other winged creatures
One of my most satisfying experiences in the garden is to have a butterfly or hummingbird flit in and around me while I’m working. It makes me feel like my intention to harmonize my life, and my client’s garden, with nature has been successful. Some of the wonderful plants I have worked with whose flowers attract winged wildlife:
Vines
Honeysuckle Tecomaria capensis
Trumpet Vine Campsis radicans
Bougainvillea Nyctaginaceae.
Shade
Columbine Aquilegia
Fuchsia Fuschia
Coral Bells Heuchera
Chinese Lantern Abutilon part sun/shade
Sun
Lily of the Nile Agapanthus
Salvias Mexican Bush Sage, Leucantha, Greggi
Butterfly Bush Buddleia davidii
Lantana
Daisy
Coral Bells Heuchera
Bottlebrush Callistemon
Abelia Glossy Abelia grandiflora
Gaura lindheimeri Whirling Butterflies
Hibiscus
Yarrow Achillea Millefolium
Seasonal
Coneflower Echinacea purpurea
Verbena Verbena canadensis
Phlox Phlox paniculata
Aster Stokesia laevis
Cardinal Flower Lobelia cardinalis
Pincushion Flower Scabiosa
Coreopsis Coreopsis grand flora
Cambridge Beard Tongue Penstamon
All you now need is a fresh water supply and a garden that is organic to create the perfect ecosystem.
One of my most satisfying experiences in the garden is to have a butterfly or hummingbird flit in and around me while I’m working. It makes me feel like my intention to harmonize my life, and my client’s garden, with nature has been successful. Some of the wonderful plants I have worked with whose flowers attract winged wildlife:
Vines
Honeysuckle Tecomaria capensis
Trumpet Vine Campsis radicans
Bougainvillea Nyctaginaceae.
Shade
Columbine Aquilegia
Fuchsia Fuschia
Coral Bells Heuchera
Chinese Lantern Abutilon part sun/shade
Sun
Lily of the Nile Agapanthus
Salvias Mexican Bush Sage, Leucantha, Greggi
Butterfly Bush Buddleia davidii
Lantana
Daisy
Coral Bells Heuchera
Bottlebrush Callistemon
Abelia Glossy Abelia grandiflora
Gaura lindheimeri Whirling Butterflies
Hibiscus
Yarrow Achillea Millefolium
Seasonal
Coneflower Echinacea purpurea
Verbena Verbena canadensis
Phlox Phlox paniculata
Aster Stokesia laevis
Cardinal Flower Lobelia cardinalis
Pincushion Flower Scabiosa
Coreopsis Coreopsis grand flora
Cambridge Beard Tongue Penstamon
All you now need is a fresh water supply and a garden that is organic to create the perfect ecosystem.
Color Therapy
Color Therapy
From the book “Healing Gardens” by Romy Rawlings
Decades of research show that color influences out thoughts, actions, mood, health and even our relationships with others. Color therapy is an ancient approach to healing that has been used since the earliest of times. As with other holistic treatments and the practice of Feng Shui, it aims to restore harmony and stimulate the person’s inner resources to aid the recovery of health, the fundamental belief being that illness develops from imbalances of energies in emotional, spiritual or physical levels.
We always talk about balance. It remains true with colors in the garden. Intense contrasts such as red/green, yellow/violet and blue/orange paired together create a balanced whole. This is closely linked to the theory of yin and yang. A mix of 70% healing color and 30% complimentary color seems to be the right ratio. It might be a matter of trail and error and instinct to find the right combination for you.
With a monochromatic planting scheme, we rely upon shape, texture and form to find an interesting balance in the composition. Softer colored focal points will create the impression that the garden is larger than it is. The placement of brighter hues such as red, orange and yellow will draw the eye towards that particular object. It’s important to choose what appeals to you, not simply the ones that fulfill these basic requirements. Garden décor, furniture, paving, etc. can also enhance color in the garden.
Red, for vitality, is energizing and it’s complimentary color is green.
Some find it too stimulating and prefer the softer pink tones in their garden.
Orange is primarily the color of joy. Warm and welcoming, it provides a feeling of well being. It’s complimentary color is blue.
Yellow is a great aid to concentration and study, it’s uplifting and represents the color of the sun. It’s complimentary color is violet.
Green is the color of nature and is a balanced hue, bringing harmony to all in it’s presence. It’s complimentary color is red.
Blue is the ideal color for places of healing. It’s conducive to meditation, contemplation and inspires patience and calm thought. It’s complimentary color is orange.
Violet is a regal color used throughout history to indicate knowledge, self-respect dignity and wealth. It’s complimentary color is yellow.
From the book “Healing Gardens” by Romy Rawlings
Decades of research show that color influences out thoughts, actions, mood, health and even our relationships with others. Color therapy is an ancient approach to healing that has been used since the earliest of times. As with other holistic treatments and the practice of Feng Shui, it aims to restore harmony and stimulate the person’s inner resources to aid the recovery of health, the fundamental belief being that illness develops from imbalances of energies in emotional, spiritual or physical levels.
We always talk about balance. It remains true with colors in the garden. Intense contrasts such as red/green, yellow/violet and blue/orange paired together create a balanced whole. This is closely linked to the theory of yin and yang. A mix of 70% healing color and 30% complimentary color seems to be the right ratio. It might be a matter of trail and error and instinct to find the right combination for you.
With a monochromatic planting scheme, we rely upon shape, texture and form to find an interesting balance in the composition. Softer colored focal points will create the impression that the garden is larger than it is. The placement of brighter hues such as red, orange and yellow will draw the eye towards that particular object. It’s important to choose what appeals to you, not simply the ones that fulfill these basic requirements. Garden décor, furniture, paving, etc. can also enhance color in the garden.
Red, for vitality, is energizing and it’s complimentary color is green.
Some find it too stimulating and prefer the softer pink tones in their garden.
Orange is primarily the color of joy. Warm and welcoming, it provides a feeling of well being. It’s complimentary color is blue.
Yellow is a great aid to concentration and study, it’s uplifting and represents the color of the sun. It’s complimentary color is violet.
Green is the color of nature and is a balanced hue, bringing harmony to all in it’s presence. It’s complimentary color is red.
Blue is the ideal color for places of healing. It’s conducive to meditation, contemplation and inspires patience and calm thought. It’s complimentary color is orange.
Violet is a regal color used throughout history to indicate knowledge, self-respect dignity and wealth. It’s complimentary color is yellow.
Monday, January 18, 2010
Rose care including pruning
Rose Care
Pruning
Why Prune Roses
Encourage new growth and bloom
Remove dead wood
Improve air circulation
Shape the plant
Tools You'll Need
By-pass pruners
Long-handled Loppers
Thick Gloves (preferably long ones)
Rose Pruning Basics:
-Use clean, sharp tools
-Look at the overall plant, but begin pruning from the base of the plant.

-Prune to open the center of the plant to light and air circulation
-Make your cuts at a 45-degree angle, about 1/4 inch above a bud (node) that is facing toward the outside of the plant. The cut should slant away from the bud. New growth always comes from the very top bud you cut to. The direction of the new growth is determined by the direction the bud points.

-Make sure it is a clean cut (not ragged)
-Remove all broken, dead, dying or diseased wood (Any branches that look dry, shriveled or black. Cut until the inside of the cane is white.)

-Remove any weak or twiggy branches thinner than a pencil
-If cane borers are a problem, seal the cut with a white glue, such as Elmer’s.
-Remove sucker growth below the graft (the swelling at the base of the canes, where the bush was budded onto the root stock).
-Remove any remaining foliage
The best time for pruning roses is from mid December through mid February. In this area our roses are usually dormant at this time of the year, thus the best time to prune. Waiting too long into February risks the danger of the buds breaking dormancy. Failure to prune our roses may result in plants with twiggy growth that are unable to support large blooms.
In zone 9 and above, where roses won't be subject to freezing temperatures, watch for fungal diseases that can creep in with the cooler, wet weather. Since your roses are still growing and setting buds, November is a good time for a light feeding.
Pruning Hybrid Tea Roses
Start by removing old, winter damaged or diseased wood, cutting it back to a healthy point. You will want to create a somewhat cup shaped plant by removing center stems, and branches pointing inwards. This will admit more light and fresh air, and help to prevent mildew and disease. Cut the remaining stems to about 1/2 of their original length, leaving the stronger stems longer than the younger, thin ones. Hard pruning will result in fewer long stemmed blooms than light pruning, but if it necessary you can cut some of the older stems back to within 6 inches of the base.
Pruning Floribundas and Grandifloras
Remove all cris-crossed stems, and cut the remaining stems at various lengths leaving the center stems longer than the outer ones to form the desired shaped plant. Pruning the canes at different lengths will help to insure continuous blooming.
Pruning Ramblers
Ramblers grow a completely new set of blooming canes each year. The flowers are formed on year old canes, which should be cut back to within 2-3 inches of their base when they are finished blooming. This will allow the plant to devote its energy into producing the new shoots that will bear the next years flowers.
Pruning Climbers
Climbing roses resent hard pruning. Remove any dead or diseased canes, other than that you should only do light pruning. Climbers should be trained to grow in a more fan shaped pattern rather than upward growth. If it becomes necessary, the canes can be shortened at any time of the year.
Pruning Miniature Roses
Miniature roses need very little pruning. Just prune them to the desired shape. Cut any new shoots which have emerged from below the soil line to about 1/2 its length. When the branches finish flowering, cut them back to a new outward facing bud.
Pruning Tree roses
Never prune the main upright stock of a tree rose. All pruning cuts would be made using the graft at the top of the tree stock, as the guide from which the pruning distances are determined. In other words the bushy head of the tree rose is what needs pruning. Make the pruning cuts according to the type of rose that is grafted onto the tree stock.
These pruning tips apply to established rose bushes. These tips do not apply to new bareroot plants. Newly planted roses should be pruned very lightly just to remove dead, diseased, broken, or twiggy growth.
After completely cleaning the rose beds of all prunings apply a clean up spray. If the plants are completely dormant a dormant spray can be used as a clean up spray for overwintering insects, spider mites, and fungal diseases. Dormant sprays for disease control fall into two groups -- sulfur or copper based formulations. If you use a copper based spray, make sure that it contains at least 50% copper. If you use a sulfur based spray (such as lime sulfur), make sure that you wash your sprayer thoroughly and do not mix other pesticides with it, as there might be some incompatibility. For insects, dormant sprays are mainly made of fine oils such as Ortho's Volck Oil. Oils work on certain insects and mites such as scale insects, aphids, fruit-tree leafroller eggs, and twospotted mites. If you had problems with these pests, then go ahead and apply the Volck oil. Please read the labels on the dormant spray containers and follow the directions very carefully.
I recommend using a combination dormant spray made up of fixed copper (Kocide or Microcoop) with Volck oil as a cleanup spray after winter pruning my garden. I use this combination dormant spray on all my fruit trees, berry vines, and roses. I prefer to use copper as a dormant spray because of its action on bacteria and on fungi, especially downy mildew.
Note: Some rosarians recommend sealing the ends of pruned canes in order to prevent "cane borers". Instead, I recommend that efforts be made in keeping the aphids under control in the home garden. The two main "cane borers" that are common in most gardens thus far seen, are dependent on the aphids for food (directly or indirectly) for their larvae in the nesting burrows in the rose canes. Therefore if the aphids are under control, you get rid of the food source and the "cane borer" wasps go somewhere else where the food (aphids) are more plentiful.
Dead-Heading:
Dead-heading is the removal of faded flowers before they can develop seed. Dead-heading is a form of summer or day-to-day pruning. Cut the flower stem back to an outward-facing bud above a five-leaflet or seven-leaflet leaf.
This "rule" applies best to plants that are vigorous. If the plant is weak or small, you may not want to cut off as much material. Each time you remove this much wood you are removing a lot of the food-making ability of the plant. This method works well for most recurrent-blooming types of roses. Flowers should not be cut after October 1 to allow the plant to begin hardening off for the winter. Dead-heading is also a good way to lessen the likelihood of diseases such a botrytis from becoming a problem.
A sucker or a Basal break?
Don't mistake a sucker with a basal break. A basal break is new growth coming from the bud graft. It is sometimes reddish, depending on the variety of the rose, it is soft and succulent with no thorns. It is to be prized, as this is the next generation of blooms for your rose bush. Traditionally here in Southern California, the root stock on a grafted rose is from a rose called, Dr. Huey. Sometimes this root stock will send out a new cane, which is called a sucker. A sucker, is growth coming from beneath the bud graft or bud union, that knob above the root structure of a grafted rose. The reason for it is that one or more of the buds on the rootstock was not cut completely out, so this bud keeps wanting to send out its own growth, often with 5- or 7-leaflet leaf clusters. Look at the leaves growing on this cane. It will look different and if let to grow at the very end you will get a small red rose. You need to dig down in the soil and cut this growth off as close to the roots as possible, as it will just take strength from the grafted rose. There are own root roses which grow only on their own canes. They do not get suckers so their new basal breaks will come from under the ground. Grafted roses have a bump of wood where the canes were grafted into. Look for this formation to determine whether the rose is grafted or not. It also may grow each season if not cut completely out.
Pruning
Why Prune Roses
Encourage new growth and bloom
Remove dead wood
Improve air circulation
Shape the plant
Tools You'll Need
By-pass pruners
Long-handled Loppers
Thick Gloves (preferably long ones)
Rose Pruning Basics:
-Use clean, sharp tools
-Look at the overall plant, but begin pruning from the base of the plant.

-Prune to open the center of the plant to light and air circulation
-Make your cuts at a 45-degree angle, about 1/4 inch above a bud (node) that is facing toward the outside of the plant. The cut should slant away from the bud. New growth always comes from the very top bud you cut to. The direction of the new growth is determined by the direction the bud points.

-Make sure it is a clean cut (not ragged)
-Remove all broken, dead, dying or diseased wood (Any branches that look dry, shriveled or black. Cut until the inside of the cane is white.)

-Remove any weak or twiggy branches thinner than a pencil
-If cane borers are a problem, seal the cut with a white glue, such as Elmer’s.
-Remove sucker growth below the graft (the swelling at the base of the canes, where the bush was budded onto the root stock).
-Remove any remaining foliage
The best time for pruning roses is from mid December through mid February. In this area our roses are usually dormant at this time of the year, thus the best time to prune. Waiting too long into February risks the danger of the buds breaking dormancy. Failure to prune our roses may result in plants with twiggy growth that are unable to support large blooms.
In zone 9 and above, where roses won't be subject to freezing temperatures, watch for fungal diseases that can creep in with the cooler, wet weather. Since your roses are still growing and setting buds, November is a good time for a light feeding.
Pruning Hybrid Tea Roses
Start by removing old, winter damaged or diseased wood, cutting it back to a healthy point. You will want to create a somewhat cup shaped plant by removing center stems, and branches pointing inwards. This will admit more light and fresh air, and help to prevent mildew and disease. Cut the remaining stems to about 1/2 of their original length, leaving the stronger stems longer than the younger, thin ones. Hard pruning will result in fewer long stemmed blooms than light pruning, but if it necessary you can cut some of the older stems back to within 6 inches of the base.
Pruning Floribundas and Grandifloras
Remove all cris-crossed stems, and cut the remaining stems at various lengths leaving the center stems longer than the outer ones to form the desired shaped plant. Pruning the canes at different lengths will help to insure continuous blooming.
Pruning Ramblers
Ramblers grow a completely new set of blooming canes each year. The flowers are formed on year old canes, which should be cut back to within 2-3 inches of their base when they are finished blooming. This will allow the plant to devote its energy into producing the new shoots that will bear the next years flowers.
Pruning Climbers
Climbing roses resent hard pruning. Remove any dead or diseased canes, other than that you should only do light pruning. Climbers should be trained to grow in a more fan shaped pattern rather than upward growth. If it becomes necessary, the canes can be shortened at any time of the year.
Pruning Miniature Roses
Miniature roses need very little pruning. Just prune them to the desired shape. Cut any new shoots which have emerged from below the soil line to about 1/2 its length. When the branches finish flowering, cut them back to a new outward facing bud.
Pruning Tree roses
Never prune the main upright stock of a tree rose. All pruning cuts would be made using the graft at the top of the tree stock, as the guide from which the pruning distances are determined. In other words the bushy head of the tree rose is what needs pruning. Make the pruning cuts according to the type of rose that is grafted onto the tree stock.
These pruning tips apply to established rose bushes. These tips do not apply to new bareroot plants. Newly planted roses should be pruned very lightly just to remove dead, diseased, broken, or twiggy growth.
After completely cleaning the rose beds of all prunings apply a clean up spray. If the plants are completely dormant a dormant spray can be used as a clean up spray for overwintering insects, spider mites, and fungal diseases. Dormant sprays for disease control fall into two groups -- sulfur or copper based formulations. If you use a copper based spray, make sure that it contains at least 50% copper. If you use a sulfur based spray (such as lime sulfur), make sure that you wash your sprayer thoroughly and do not mix other pesticides with it, as there might be some incompatibility. For insects, dormant sprays are mainly made of fine oils such as Ortho's Volck Oil. Oils work on certain insects and mites such as scale insects, aphids, fruit-tree leafroller eggs, and twospotted mites. If you had problems with these pests, then go ahead and apply the Volck oil. Please read the labels on the dormant spray containers and follow the directions very carefully.
I recommend using a combination dormant spray made up of fixed copper (Kocide or Microcoop) with Volck oil as a cleanup spray after winter pruning my garden. I use this combination dormant spray on all my fruit trees, berry vines, and roses. I prefer to use copper as a dormant spray because of its action on bacteria and on fungi, especially downy mildew.
Note: Some rosarians recommend sealing the ends of pruned canes in order to prevent "cane borers". Instead, I recommend that efforts be made in keeping the aphids under control in the home garden. The two main "cane borers" that are common in most gardens thus far seen, are dependent on the aphids for food (directly or indirectly) for their larvae in the nesting burrows in the rose canes. Therefore if the aphids are under control, you get rid of the food source and the "cane borer" wasps go somewhere else where the food (aphids) are more plentiful.
Dead-Heading:
Dead-heading is the removal of faded flowers before they can develop seed. Dead-heading is a form of summer or day-to-day pruning. Cut the flower stem back to an outward-facing bud above a five-leaflet or seven-leaflet leaf.
This "rule" applies best to plants that are vigorous. If the plant is weak or small, you may not want to cut off as much material. Each time you remove this much wood you are removing a lot of the food-making ability of the plant. This method works well for most recurrent-blooming types of roses. Flowers should not be cut after October 1 to allow the plant to begin hardening off for the winter. Dead-heading is also a good way to lessen the likelihood of diseases such a botrytis from becoming a problem.
A sucker or a Basal break?
Don't mistake a sucker with a basal break. A basal break is new growth coming from the bud graft. It is sometimes reddish, depending on the variety of the rose, it is soft and succulent with no thorns. It is to be prized, as this is the next generation of blooms for your rose bush. Traditionally here in Southern California, the root stock on a grafted rose is from a rose called, Dr. Huey. Sometimes this root stock will send out a new cane, which is called a sucker. A sucker, is growth coming from beneath the bud graft or bud union, that knob above the root structure of a grafted rose. The reason for it is that one or more of the buds on the rootstock was not cut completely out, so this bud keeps wanting to send out its own growth, often with 5- or 7-leaflet leaf clusters. Look at the leaves growing on this cane. It will look different and if let to grow at the very end you will get a small red rose. You need to dig down in the soil and cut this growth off as close to the roots as possible, as it will just take strength from the grafted rose. There are own root roses which grow only on their own canes. They do not get suckers so their new basal breaks will come from under the ground. Grafted roses have a bump of wood where the canes were grafted into. Look for this formation to determine whether the rose is grafted or not. It also may grow each season if not cut completely out.
The Healthcare Healing Garden
The Healthcare Healing Garden
Within the healthcare setting, specific aspects of the healing process can be identified that will help to clarify how a garden environment may provide therapeutic benefit. The common thread of being nurtured by nature is throughout.
First, is achieving a degree of relief from physical symptoms, or awareness of those symptoms. This relief is significant in an individual with acute illness or trauma from which he/she is recovering, such as post surgery and pain management. A second form that healing can take, is that of stress reduction and comfort when dealing with the experiences of a medical setting. Where relaxation and a sense of well being are the goal, this is one of the most significant reasons to create a therapeutic healing garden.
One theory is that having a garden gives one the feeling, or perception of control within their environment. For persons who are ill, loss of the sense of control, real or perceived especially if hospitalized, creates much stress and adversely affects health outcomes. Having a garden also fosters social support for patients, family and staff, physical movement and exercise and access to nature and other positive distractions.
Two case studies of children’s hospital gardens asked the question “Where do people go when they’re stressed?” 95% of those interviewed reported a positive change in mood after spending time outside, from feeling depressed, stressed, and anxious, to a more and balanced outlook. The specific qualities helpful in triggering this mood change were elements of the plant world (trees, flower, colors, greenery, etc.). People also mentioned elements such as water, fresh air, fragrance and the sounds of wildlife.
In another study, 300 participants were asked to recall a time and place when they, or someone they knew, felt helpless, wounded, or in pain. Then to visualize “an environment that would be healing for that wounded person.” Every participant envisioned nature as a significant healing agent.
In recent years, the mainstream knowledge base has been altered by mind-body studies showing that psychological and environmental factors can affect physiological systems and health status.
In creating a healing garden in a medical and/or healthcare related setting, we can list the following advantages:
A reduction in stress, depression and anxiety, especially if the garden fosters exercise.
A higher reported quality of life for chronic and terminal patients.
Reduced pain in patients.
Reduced need for pain relieving and/or mood elevating medications.
This excerpt was taken from the book “Healing gardens, therapeutic benefits and design recommendations” by Clare Cooper Marcus and Marni Barnes.
I know that funding and adequate time for a healing garden can be a factor. I also have a couple of alternatives, including the Mobile Garden Club and a courtyard-style outdoor garden as a resource for your facility.
The Mobile Garden Club and courtyard-style outdoor garden
I will come as a garden activity director, for a designated period of time and help people build and tend their indoor and outdoor gardens.
We can work on crafts, decorating pots for indoor plants. Wreaths, herb oils and potpourri are just a few examples of what can be made. I can give watering and fertilizer tips and discuss seasonal diseases and pest issues. I will show people how to prune and we can talk about nature in general. People can share their experiences, ideas and knowledge. The fellowship and exercise, even if it’s on a smaller level for someone perhaps in a wheelchair, can be extremely healing. Small outdoor courtyard-style gardens can be wheelchair accessible, have a table and chairs for a social setting or bench for privacy and contemplation. Please visit my website for ideas on design packages.
If funding is required, we will try to make the program you are interested in work through donations or grants.
Possible garden-type scenarios:
For indoor gardens, materials that can be required are: Pots, plants, soil, garden décor, tools ie: gloves, pruners, small shovel, watering can, etc. Materials for crafts.
Outdoor gardens already installed, but needing renovation, materials possibly required:
Water feature, soil amendment, irrigation, plants, sprays and fertilizers, garden décor, bench, patio furniture, etc.
New outdoor gardens would be bid on a separate basis.
Within the healthcare setting, specific aspects of the healing process can be identified that will help to clarify how a garden environment may provide therapeutic benefit. The common thread of being nurtured by nature is throughout.
First, is achieving a degree of relief from physical symptoms, or awareness of those symptoms. This relief is significant in an individual with acute illness or trauma from which he/she is recovering, such as post surgery and pain management. A second form that healing can take, is that of stress reduction and comfort when dealing with the experiences of a medical setting. Where relaxation and a sense of well being are the goal, this is one of the most significant reasons to create a therapeutic healing garden.
One theory is that having a garden gives one the feeling, or perception of control within their environment. For persons who are ill, loss of the sense of control, real or perceived especially if hospitalized, creates much stress and adversely affects health outcomes. Having a garden also fosters social support for patients, family and staff, physical movement and exercise and access to nature and other positive distractions.
Two case studies of children’s hospital gardens asked the question “Where do people go when they’re stressed?” 95% of those interviewed reported a positive change in mood after spending time outside, from feeling depressed, stressed, and anxious, to a more and balanced outlook. The specific qualities helpful in triggering this mood change were elements of the plant world (trees, flower, colors, greenery, etc.). People also mentioned elements such as water, fresh air, fragrance and the sounds of wildlife.
In another study, 300 participants were asked to recall a time and place when they, or someone they knew, felt helpless, wounded, or in pain. Then to visualize “an environment that would be healing for that wounded person.” Every participant envisioned nature as a significant healing agent.
In recent years, the mainstream knowledge base has been altered by mind-body studies showing that psychological and environmental factors can affect physiological systems and health status.
In creating a healing garden in a medical and/or healthcare related setting, we can list the following advantages:
A reduction in stress, depression and anxiety, especially if the garden fosters exercise.
A higher reported quality of life for chronic and terminal patients.
Reduced pain in patients.
Reduced need for pain relieving and/or mood elevating medications.
This excerpt was taken from the book “Healing gardens, therapeutic benefits and design recommendations” by Clare Cooper Marcus and Marni Barnes.
I know that funding and adequate time for a healing garden can be a factor. I also have a couple of alternatives, including the Mobile Garden Club and a courtyard-style outdoor garden as a resource for your facility.
The Mobile Garden Club and courtyard-style outdoor garden
I will come as a garden activity director, for a designated period of time and help people build and tend their indoor and outdoor gardens.
We can work on crafts, decorating pots for indoor plants. Wreaths, herb oils and potpourri are just a few examples of what can be made. I can give watering and fertilizer tips and discuss seasonal diseases and pest issues. I will show people how to prune and we can talk about nature in general. People can share their experiences, ideas and knowledge. The fellowship and exercise, even if it’s on a smaller level for someone perhaps in a wheelchair, can be extremely healing. Small outdoor courtyard-style gardens can be wheelchair accessible, have a table and chairs for a social setting or bench for privacy and contemplation. Please visit my website for ideas on design packages.
If funding is required, we will try to make the program you are interested in work through donations or grants.
Possible garden-type scenarios:
For indoor gardens, materials that can be required are: Pots, plants, soil, garden décor, tools ie: gloves, pruners, small shovel, watering can, etc. Materials for crafts.
Outdoor gardens already installed, but needing renovation, materials possibly required:
Water feature, soil amendment, irrigation, plants, sprays and fertilizers, garden décor, bench, patio furniture, etc.
New outdoor gardens would be bid on a separate basis.
Thursday, January 7, 2010
Nurtured by Nature
I would like to share why I think everyone needs a garden sanctuary by starting with what nature gives me.
Primarily, it gives me balance.
Being around nature reminds me to breathe, slow down and take care of myself. Something too easily forgotten nowadays.
It reminds me that there's something greater in this universe than my small self. That's comforting.
If you pay attention, you will be awed and nurtured by the contrasting textures and light of a plant.
If you take the time to hear the soothing sounds of water flowing or a wind chime in the breeze and feel the warmth of the Sun, Nature will always show you it's healing, spiritual side. And in turn, show you yours.
Nature gives me balance. It empowers me when I take care of myself. I am inspired and somehow, in this, I find hope.
May your day be filled with love, light and laughter
Namaste
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