Testing your soil's PH

Testing your soil’s pH
For a better lawn or garden, start with a soil test. Testing your soil allows you to:
Select the right plants for your garden—A pH test, for example, determines how acid/alkaline your soil is. 7 is neutral. Southern western United States’ soil is typically 7.5-8, which is alkaline high.
Remedy your soil problems by determining what key elements are missing from your soil.
Monitor nutrients—Nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium are all needed for plant growth, color and blooming.
Soil test kits are available at most garden centers. These kits allow you to get an immediate analysis of your soil's pH.
Your local agricultural extension office will also test your soil sample for pH and nutrient levels (usually for a small fee). Most offices provide you with a sterile container for your sample and a form to answer questions about your garden, where you live and the plants you wish to grow. The soil analysis usually takes a few weeks to get back to you. The analysis includes detailed results and suggested amendments specific to your region. Ventura County office is 805-645-1451. L.A is 562-622-0433.




How to test the soil
You will need:
Clean bucket
Garden trowel
Clean container
Newspaper
Steps:
Thoroughly clean the tools you are using to collect the soil sample.
In the planting area, dig five holes 6-8" deep.
Take a 1/2" slice along the side of a hole and place it in the bucket. Repeat this process for all holes.
Collect samples from different areas that will be growing similar plants.
Mix the soil in the bucket. Spread the soil on a newspaper to dry out. Collect a pint for your sample.
Helpful Hints:
The best time to test your soil is in the late fall or early spring. This gives you the time to make adjustments before you plant your garden, since soil corrections may take a few months to become effective.
Wet soil can give a false test reading. Be sure to take the sample when the soil is fairly dry. You may want to check your soil more than once to verify your results.






#What do the results mean?
Result Correction
High pH Soils with a high pH are alkaline. To lower pH, add sulfur into the soil surrounding the existing plants or into new planting beds.
Low pH A low pH reading is an indication that your soil is too acidic. To correct the problem, add lime to the soil and mix well.
Low nitrogen This is a common problem with soil. Use synthetic or natural, nitrogen-rich fertilizers according to the rate suggested by the manufacturer.
High nitrogen High nitrogen levels are usually the result of soils that have been over-fertilized. Water the soil well and stop adding fertilizer for several months.
Low phosphorus Mix superphosphate or bone meal into your garden soil, making sure to mix these amendments into the soil thoroughly.
High phosphorous This problem is usually caused by too much high-phosphate fertilizer. Do not use phosphorous-rich fertilizer for two years, and grow an abundance of plants to use up the excess.
Low potassium Work in potash or wood ashes. Avoid using wood ashes around acid-loving plants because these are alkaline and may diminish the growth of the plants.
High potassium Add nitrogen and phosphorous to help balance the soil, but do not add potassium-rich fertilizers or soil amendments for two to three years.
Poor drainage Heavy clay soil tends to drain poorly. Thoroughly mix in peat moss, compost or other organic materials to help loosen the soil.
Too much drainage Sandy soil drains too quickly to hold necessary nutrients. Add organic materials to remedy soil that drains too quickly, just as you would for poor drainage conditions.



pH What to do

6.0
Apply 20 pounds of lime per 1000 square feet

5.5
Apply 25 pounds of lime per 1000 square feet. At least a month later, add another 20 pounds of lime per square feet.






7.5 Apply 10 pounds of gardener's sulfur per 1000 square feet

8.0
Apply 20 pounds of gardener's sulfur per 1000 square feet

8.5
Apply 40 pounds of gardener's sulfur per 1000 square feet