What to plant
Early March is the best time to start planting your summer garden. You can plant vegetables like artichokes, corn, green beans, green onion, spinach, cucumbers, lettuce and tomatoes. Fruits such as berries and melons. Herbs such as basil, dill, marjoram, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, savory, Swiss chard and thyme. Plant mint and rosemary separately in pots to prevent invasive growing into the other plants in your garden. Year round crops such as beets, carrots, chard, radishes and turnips can be planted too. In April, plant the summer veggies such as eggplant, lima beans, melons, okra, peppers and pumpkins. If you have the desire and space, plant a fruit tree!
Where to plant
Ideally, design your garden to be able to plant in full sun. The rule of thumb is to plant tall crops such as pole beans, corn and tomatoes to the north and short crops such as cucumbers, carrots and basil to the south so that the sun goes from side to side across them. Plants that can take partial sun are lettuce, tomatoes (mid-day sun with reflected heat), asparagus, potatoes, parsley. Check the internet for other examples. Don’t attempt to grow vegetables in areas clogged with tree roots, since they sap the water needed for healthy growth. Space plants or seeds according to each plant’s directions. Interplant to save space ie: plant pole beans next to corn and the beans will use the corn as a natural trellis.
Good soil and drainage
Vegetables need deep, fertile soil with adequate drainage. Add amendment (Kellog’s Gro-mulch is my favorite) if necessary. If your soil is really bad or you have gophers, plant in raised beds that are filled with topsoil mixed with organic amendments. Plan to add amendment at the beginning of each season as the crops will leach the nutrition from the existing soil during the growing season.
Irrigation
The most efficient watering system is a drip. Most vegetables need the equivalent of an inch of rain per week for healthy growth. Drip systems use 40-60% less water by putting the water directly where the roots are. You have less evaporation and there is no water left on the leaves like there would be for overhead watering which can encourage fungal disease. A drip designed for row crops such as a row length of ½ inch tube that feeds into ¼ inch hose with individual drip heads spaced evenly or strategically to water each plant.
Plant for successive crops
The planting vegetables that mature all at the same time, like lettuce, carrots and beets, don’t plant the whole package at once. Plant quantities no bigger than you can eat at tone time and save the rest of the seeds to plant at intervals for continued crops.
When planting in established gardens
If you grow vegetables year round in an established garden, begin now to make space for summer crops. Remember the north to south planting rule of thumb.
Protection from critters rabbits, gophers, squirrels, etc.
You have to take into consideration birds, rabbits, squirrels, gophers and other critters if you know you have them already! Netting under the garden soil for gophers, small cages such as a berry basket over each planted seed for corn and bean sprouts, will protect the young seedling sprouts from birds. Bloodmeal and netting around the garden for rabbits, etc. Sluggo or copper tape for snails.
Buying seeds vs. seedlings
The argument for planting from seeds really has to do with time, how early or late you’re planting? Money, seeds are a lot cheaper than seedlings, but do you need 50 of one plant? And effort. Buying a six pack of seedlings is a lot easier and faster than growing from seeds. Seedlings are pretty generic in their varieties, with the exception of tomatoes, which are trendy now with all of the heirlooms available and seeds give you more of a variety.
Composting
One of the easiest things to do now that you have a garden is to save the “scraps” to compost back into the garden soil. Egg shells are also a good thing to add for their nutrition. Don’t forget to check the internet for more ideas.
Check out companion planting and sustainable gardens
Friday, February 18, 2011
Thursday, April 15, 2010
Horticultural Therapy as Empowerment
Hank Bruce & Tomi Jill Folk
We tend to think of horticultural therapy as an exercise in enabling those with limitations to take part in the gardening experience. In truth the benefits of a good therapeutic gardening program extend beyond simply enabling to become truly empowering.
A senior citizen enters a nursing home and there is a radical change in the perceived life style. A life filled with the dignity of meaning and responsibilities is now without purpose. An individual who had a sense of place, owned the role of provider, nurturer, care giver and protector now has a sense of powerlessness, hopelessness, confusion and loneliness. In an attempt to provide care and preserve health at all costs, we literally protect our elders to death. We deny them the ability to make decisions; we deny them the opportunity to be a responsible member of a community. We strip them of a meaningful existence. But this doesn’t have to be. Horticultural therapy can provide meaning and purpose.
A child is constantly told "No, don’t do that." or, "You can’t do that." When we finally convince the child that they are perpetually incompetent and never good enough we declare them an adult. When we constantly point out the failures and shortcomings of our young people we prepare them for a lifetime of blind obedience and chronic striving for the artificial success of material possession. This doesn’t have to be the legacy of one generation to the next. Horticultural therapy can provide positive self confidence in young people that will last a lifetime.
Victims of abuse are convinced that they possess no self-worth, that they deserve the abuse. Often the abuser is a product of the same sense of worthlessness. This can be a chronic cycle that is perpetuated from generation to generation. But it doesn’t have to be that way. We can break the cycle through horticultural therapy programs.
When we help to put meaning into someone’s life, regardless of their age or limitations, when we help others to discover self worth and their worth to friends, neighbors and strangers, when we open the doors of discovery or help to turn the pages of the mental photo album, we give the great gift of empowerment. We can do all of these things in the garden. Plants can be the common bond, the starting point, the lowest common denominator on the shared journey through life, and the shared exploration of the memories of the past, the experiences of the present and the hopes and expectations of the future. As horticultural therapists we can empower people to face life, discover themselves and share joy. This is a big part of the value in a horticultural therapy program, whether it is in a school or an Alzheimer’s daycare center, a cancer ward or a center for the developmentally disabled.
How we can empower others in the garden:
Making decisions is the most basic way to feel a sense of independence and value as a functional human being. We can let the participants chart the direction of their program, decide what they want to grow in their garden, or on their windowsill. Even if it is such a simple decision as selecting the color of the pot, or the cutting to start, we can let them make the decisions. Making decisions is empowering. Even if there are physical or mental limitations this decision making activity can be achieved with the use of a portable Cellugro Green Thumb Garden, or the Cellugro Abundant Harvest Garden as an accessible raised bed.
Experiencing success is also essential to the empowering feeling of self worth. Cuttings that root, seeds that sprout, plants that flower or fruit, vegetables to harvest are all simple, but significant and meaningful successes. Sometimes this is the only success in the life of a person who has been repeatedly told that he or she is a failure. Experiencing success is empowering. The almost failsafe gardening that the Cellugro system makes possible makes success a reality.
Nurturing is instinctive within us all. To be denied the opportunity to nurture and care for another living thing is demoralizing and destructive to one’s sense of personal worth and social value. When we help someone care for a plant or a garden, often through teaching the basics of plant care to help assure success we are empowering a fellow human being. To nurture is to feel a sense of worth, to empower with the knowledge that you can care for another living thing, and that it will respond.
Responsibilities and obligations are also an element of empowerment. When we help someone to understand the responsibilities of watering, pruning, pest control, and climatic extremes we are giving a life meaning and purpose. It is empowering to have purpose, a reason to live. The Cellugro gardens make it possible for almost everyone to accept these responsibilities and fulfill these obligations.
Sharing experiences is a means of affirmation. Whether it’s a one-on-one session in the garden, a family unit, or being a part of a community of gardeners, sharing time together with plants can open doors of communication, be a safe place to discuss fears and concerns, trigger memories or enjoy each other’s hopes and joys. Being comfortable enough to share both emotions and experiences is empowering; as is listening to each other. The Cellugro Green Thumb Garden is portable enough to be moved from room to room, greatly expanding the opportunity for sharing the joy and stimulating the senses.
Listening is a great gift. Telling the stories of yesterday’s garden, voicing the hopes for tomorrow’s flowers or talking about the experience of being with plants today is a way of establishing our sense of place. When we empower others through the gardening experience, we give them the confidence and freedom to tell their stories and reminisces. It is vital to listen. What a gift we give when we spend a few minutes listening. So often we feel we are on a time schedule and rush through answers to questions, or ignore opportunities to give someone an audience. When we listen to someone, even if the voice is labored or the thoughts come with difficulty, we are telling that individual that they have value, that they mean something to us. To simply listen is empowering to others because we make them teachers, entertainers and storytellers.
To give the gift of empowerment isn’t easy. First we must be sufficiently confident in ourselves to relinquish total control of the garden, the program and the moment. We have to let others make decisions and this may make our work more difficult, but it will make our success far greater. We will have to relax our time schedules to provide time for sharing and listening. But, as we encourage others to tell their stories, this becomes a learning experience for us and everyone else involved. The simple truth is that when we empower others, they in turn empower us. Everyone grows.
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Organic vs. chemical gardening
The Organic Method
There is nothing mysterious or magical about organic gardening. It is simply a way of working with nature rather than against it. The objective is to recycle organic matter back into the soil, to maintain soil structure and fertility, and to encourage natural methods of pest and disease control, rather than relying on chemicals. It is, in fact, a lot less mysterious than the methods employed by the chemical grower.
Organic gardening is much more than just growing plants without chemical fertilizers and artificial sprays. It is a lifestyle. It recognizes that that the complex workings of nature have been successful at maintaining life for hundreds of millions of years, so the sound organic cultivating principals closely follow those found in the natural world. Do not be fooled into thinking that these principals will have a detrimental effect on yield and quality. In fact, you are likely to increase both, and in doing so, you will be providing an alternative habitat for wildlife, while being certain that the fruits and vegetables you have produced in your garden are safe, nutritious and chemical free. You will also be reducing the possibility of the harmful side effects from pesticides that are on the increase in infants and young developing adults.
Of the approximately 50,000 home pesticide poisonings each year, 17,000 are among children under the age of 4. Pesticides can remain active for years. They are poisonous and designed to kill.
The organic gardener uses a more constructive approach based on the awareness that there is a balance in the natural world which allows all species to co-exist without any one gaining dominance.
By growing a wide diversity of plants, the organic gardener will attract and build a miniature eco-system of pests and predators so that, provided the balance isn't upset by killing them with chemicals, no species will be allowed to build up to an unacceptable level.
The soil is teaming with millions of microorganisms which, in the course of their lives, will release those nutrients required for healthy plant growth from organic matter. So, rather than feeding the plants, the organic method is to feed the soil with natural materials and allow the plants to draw on that humic reservoir of nutrients as they need them. Plants grown this way will be stronger and more able to resist attacks by pests and diseases. Dr. Earth Pro-BioticTM is built on this sound principle. It works and lasts for years as it becomes a part of the living soil.
The Chemical Method
The purely chemical gardener uses soil simply as a means of anchoring plant roots and of holding artificial fertilizers to provide plant nutrients. This approach seems to have good results, but only in the short term.
In the long term, it has disastrous consequences. Because organic matter is not replaced, the soil organisms die out. Without them the soil structure breaks down and the soil becomes hard, airless and unproductive. Attempts at "force-feeding" plants result in soft, sappy growth, which is prone to attack by a host of pests and diseases.
When a plant is forced to grow with a chemical, high NPK fertilizer, it becomes weak. As plant cell walls are developing they do not have enough time to produce two important compounds, cellulose and lignins. These substances give the cell wall its structural integrity. As cells are forced to duplicate and grow quickly, the amount of cellulose and lignins are decreased, making the plant tissues much softer and more appealing for pests to attack. Think of it this way. It is like chewing on a piece of butter lettuce for us as opposed to chewing on a piece of wood. The same is true for insects. They prefer that tender soft growth.
In order to control insects, chemical pesticides are used, often with short term success. But, in killing the pests, pesticides also kill their natural predators. Eventually, the problem gets worse. Stronger and more poisonous pesticides have to be resorted to, and so it goes on. It is a vicious cycle that, once started, is difficult to break.
We at Dr. Earth will help you to grow all plants and control those insects naturally without the harmful side effects of chemical products. This is our lifestyle and contribution to all gardeners and our environment.
Clean Water, Clean Lakes
Water quality starts at home
Clean Water in our lakes, reservoirs and streams starts at home with basic practices you can incorporate into your lawn and garden care program. Water quality begins at home. There is a pipeline from your garden to a body of water. Regardless of where you live, you are a part of a watershed - a region where water flows across or under on its way to a lake, river, stream or ocean. Year-round lawn and garden care practices impact water quality even if you don't live near a body of water.
The problem: Water-soluble Phosphorous
Thanks to modern science, we now understand how the Phosphorous contained in fertilizers contributes to poor water quality. Phosphorous is the middle number on the ''NPK'' analysis printed on a fertilizer bag. It is present in all living things including the soil. Too much Phosphorous however, can disrupt nature's delicate balance. Runoff carries excess Phosphorous from fertilizers across lawns, roads and woods into ditches and streams which eventually run into reservoirs, lakes, bays or the ocean. Water soluble Phosphorous is ''junk food'' for the algae present in all these waterways.
Lawns - a big contributor to the problem
Lawns and plants are not usually able to absorb all of the water soluble fertilizers in chemical fertilizers, so some of it becomes the source of water pollution. As algae grow out of control (known as algae ''bloom'') it reduces the clarity and visibility of the water. This in turn reduces photosynthesis by oxygen-producing aquatic plants, therefore reducing the oxygen in the water. Some forms of blue-green algae can even be toxic. Repeated algae blooms can create green-colored lakes with low oxygen often resulting in fish kills or depleted water habitat for fish, wildlife and humans. Additionally, such conditions may degrade drinking water supplies and create other environmental nuisances. Many cities have put a ban on the use of chemical fertilizers in close proximity to lakes and rivers for this very reason.
The impact of algae
As watersheds are adapted from their natural state to residential, commercial or industrial uses, the amount of Phosphorous runoff into lakes may increase up to five to ten times. Algae-impacted lakes affect a community in several ways. Poor water quality significantly impacts the recreational value and use of the waterway and may reduce the value of the surrounding properties.
My personal concern
I am personally affected in this manner. I live on a 45 acre walnut farm which also serves as a testing ground for a wide variety of plants and trees. There is a good-sized creek running through the property. From time to time, I personally witness algae blooms in the creek's water as the neighboring farms apply chemical fertilizers and sprays to their crops. I enjoy fishing and eating a fresh-caught trout or bass once in a while, but I am genuinely concerned about the quality of the creek water which directly affects the quality of the fish in this creek. Of course, I only use organic fertilizers on my farm, but I cannot control what the other farmers use. This is a good illustration of the importance of using water-insoluble fertilizers such as Dr. Earth in our homes, farms and communities.
Pollution from runoff
Runoff of agro-chemicals during storm and irrigation events is a significant concern from the standpoint of surface water quality. The delivery of phosphorous and pesticides into the surface water via runoff may contribute acute or chronic eco-toxic effects. Numerous studies have documented that the transport of agro-chemicals via runoff to streams is facilitated primarily by sediment movement. It has been observed that concentrations of phosphorous and nitrogen are often richer in the deposited sediment than the source soil. Fine soil particles if not blended with coarse organic materials tend to move quickly during irrigation or runoff events. This becomes even more critical in times of heavy rainfall as sediment-laden runoff moves from the land to the waterways.
The solution
There is a Solution to phosphorous runoff. Dr. Earth organic fertilizers contain only water-insoluble forms of Phosphorous and will ensure that the fertilizer applied remains in the soil. The Phosphorous will not leach into the water table and travel into waterways. Dr. Earth contains Pro-BioticTM beneficial soil microbes and mycorrhizae. A vital mechanism for nutrient transfer by plants lies in the microbial process of the soil. The microbes' ability to breakdown organic matter quickly then release it as plant nutrients slowly and continuously over time increases yield and builds the humus reserve in the soil. Humus conversion increases the soils ability to absorb and retain water, further reducing runoff and fertilizer loss caused by water or other erosive forces.
Be part of the solution!
Apply fertilizers only when they are needed, during the proper season and in the correct amounts. Avoid getting the fertilizer on driveways, sidewalks and in storm drains. Above all, apply carefully, especially when using chemical fertilizers.
Don't let your fertilizers get into lakes, streams or ponds. On lawns, use a mulching mower and cut no more than the top third of the grass. Keep leaves, grass clippings and soil out of streets and gutters. Clean up after your pet, pet waste contains phosphorous. Prevent soil erosion by covering the ground with vegetation or mulch. Use Dr. Earth organic fertilizers to feed plants in your yard, garden and lawn to avoid applying water soluble Phosphorous.
We all share the same pool of water. Be conscientious in your gardening habits to ensure that future generations will enjoy a healthy, toxic-free environment. Poor water quality can impact the ability of fish and other wildlife to reproduce, feed and survive in the dynamic aquatic environment. It all starts in our own backyard and ends in a large body of water. Please act as a responsible steward of our environment.
Milo Lou Shammas
President and Chief Scientist
Dr. Earth, Inc.
There is nothing mysterious or magical about organic gardening. It is simply a way of working with nature rather than against it. The objective is to recycle organic matter back into the soil, to maintain soil structure and fertility, and to encourage natural methods of pest and disease control, rather than relying on chemicals. It is, in fact, a lot less mysterious than the methods employed by the chemical grower.
Organic gardening is much more than just growing plants without chemical fertilizers and artificial sprays. It is a lifestyle. It recognizes that that the complex workings of nature have been successful at maintaining life for hundreds of millions of years, so the sound organic cultivating principals closely follow those found in the natural world. Do not be fooled into thinking that these principals will have a detrimental effect on yield and quality. In fact, you are likely to increase both, and in doing so, you will be providing an alternative habitat for wildlife, while being certain that the fruits and vegetables you have produced in your garden are safe, nutritious and chemical free. You will also be reducing the possibility of the harmful side effects from pesticides that are on the increase in infants and young developing adults.
Of the approximately 50,000 home pesticide poisonings each year, 17,000 are among children under the age of 4. Pesticides can remain active for years. They are poisonous and designed to kill.
The organic gardener uses a more constructive approach based on the awareness that there is a balance in the natural world which allows all species to co-exist without any one gaining dominance.
By growing a wide diversity of plants, the organic gardener will attract and build a miniature eco-system of pests and predators so that, provided the balance isn't upset by killing them with chemicals, no species will be allowed to build up to an unacceptable level.
The soil is teaming with millions of microorganisms which, in the course of their lives, will release those nutrients required for healthy plant growth from organic matter. So, rather than feeding the plants, the organic method is to feed the soil with natural materials and allow the plants to draw on that humic reservoir of nutrients as they need them. Plants grown this way will be stronger and more able to resist attacks by pests and diseases. Dr. Earth Pro-BioticTM is built on this sound principle. It works and lasts for years as it becomes a part of the living soil.
The Chemical Method
The purely chemical gardener uses soil simply as a means of anchoring plant roots and of holding artificial fertilizers to provide plant nutrients. This approach seems to have good results, but only in the short term.
In the long term, it has disastrous consequences. Because organic matter is not replaced, the soil organisms die out. Without them the soil structure breaks down and the soil becomes hard, airless and unproductive. Attempts at "force-feeding" plants result in soft, sappy growth, which is prone to attack by a host of pests and diseases.
When a plant is forced to grow with a chemical, high NPK fertilizer, it becomes weak. As plant cell walls are developing they do not have enough time to produce two important compounds, cellulose and lignins. These substances give the cell wall its structural integrity. As cells are forced to duplicate and grow quickly, the amount of cellulose and lignins are decreased, making the plant tissues much softer and more appealing for pests to attack. Think of it this way. It is like chewing on a piece of butter lettuce for us as opposed to chewing on a piece of wood. The same is true for insects. They prefer that tender soft growth.
In order to control insects, chemical pesticides are used, often with short term success. But, in killing the pests, pesticides also kill their natural predators. Eventually, the problem gets worse. Stronger and more poisonous pesticides have to be resorted to, and so it goes on. It is a vicious cycle that, once started, is difficult to break.
We at Dr. Earth will help you to grow all plants and control those insects naturally without the harmful side effects of chemical products. This is our lifestyle and contribution to all gardeners and our environment.
Clean Water, Clean Lakes
Water quality starts at home
Clean Water in our lakes, reservoirs and streams starts at home with basic practices you can incorporate into your lawn and garden care program. Water quality begins at home. There is a pipeline from your garden to a body of water. Regardless of where you live, you are a part of a watershed - a region where water flows across or under on its way to a lake, river, stream or ocean. Year-round lawn and garden care practices impact water quality even if you don't live near a body of water.
The problem: Water-soluble Phosphorous
Thanks to modern science, we now understand how the Phosphorous contained in fertilizers contributes to poor water quality. Phosphorous is the middle number on the ''NPK'' analysis printed on a fertilizer bag. It is present in all living things including the soil. Too much Phosphorous however, can disrupt nature's delicate balance. Runoff carries excess Phosphorous from fertilizers across lawns, roads and woods into ditches and streams which eventually run into reservoirs, lakes, bays or the ocean. Water soluble Phosphorous is ''junk food'' for the algae present in all these waterways.
Lawns - a big contributor to the problem
Lawns and plants are not usually able to absorb all of the water soluble fertilizers in chemical fertilizers, so some of it becomes the source of water pollution. As algae grow out of control (known as algae ''bloom'') it reduces the clarity and visibility of the water. This in turn reduces photosynthesis by oxygen-producing aquatic plants, therefore reducing the oxygen in the water. Some forms of blue-green algae can even be toxic. Repeated algae blooms can create green-colored lakes with low oxygen often resulting in fish kills or depleted water habitat for fish, wildlife and humans. Additionally, such conditions may degrade drinking water supplies and create other environmental nuisances. Many cities have put a ban on the use of chemical fertilizers in close proximity to lakes and rivers for this very reason.
The impact of algae
As watersheds are adapted from their natural state to residential, commercial or industrial uses, the amount of Phosphorous runoff into lakes may increase up to five to ten times. Algae-impacted lakes affect a community in several ways. Poor water quality significantly impacts the recreational value and use of the waterway and may reduce the value of the surrounding properties.
My personal concern
I am personally affected in this manner. I live on a 45 acre walnut farm which also serves as a testing ground for a wide variety of plants and trees. There is a good-sized creek running through the property. From time to time, I personally witness algae blooms in the creek's water as the neighboring farms apply chemical fertilizers and sprays to their crops. I enjoy fishing and eating a fresh-caught trout or bass once in a while, but I am genuinely concerned about the quality of the creek water which directly affects the quality of the fish in this creek. Of course, I only use organic fertilizers on my farm, but I cannot control what the other farmers use. This is a good illustration of the importance of using water-insoluble fertilizers such as Dr. Earth in our homes, farms and communities.
Pollution from runoff
Runoff of agro-chemicals during storm and irrigation events is a significant concern from the standpoint of surface water quality. The delivery of phosphorous and pesticides into the surface water via runoff may contribute acute or chronic eco-toxic effects. Numerous studies have documented that the transport of agro-chemicals via runoff to streams is facilitated primarily by sediment movement. It has been observed that concentrations of phosphorous and nitrogen are often richer in the deposited sediment than the source soil. Fine soil particles if not blended with coarse organic materials tend to move quickly during irrigation or runoff events. This becomes even more critical in times of heavy rainfall as sediment-laden runoff moves from the land to the waterways.
The solution
There is a Solution to phosphorous runoff. Dr. Earth organic fertilizers contain only water-insoluble forms of Phosphorous and will ensure that the fertilizer applied remains in the soil. The Phosphorous will not leach into the water table and travel into waterways. Dr. Earth contains Pro-BioticTM beneficial soil microbes and mycorrhizae. A vital mechanism for nutrient transfer by plants lies in the microbial process of the soil. The microbes' ability to breakdown organic matter quickly then release it as plant nutrients slowly and continuously over time increases yield and builds the humus reserve in the soil. Humus conversion increases the soils ability to absorb and retain water, further reducing runoff and fertilizer loss caused by water or other erosive forces.
Be part of the solution!
Apply fertilizers only when they are needed, during the proper season and in the correct amounts. Avoid getting the fertilizer on driveways, sidewalks and in storm drains. Above all, apply carefully, especially when using chemical fertilizers.
Don't let your fertilizers get into lakes, streams or ponds. On lawns, use a mulching mower and cut no more than the top third of the grass. Keep leaves, grass clippings and soil out of streets and gutters. Clean up after your pet, pet waste contains phosphorous. Prevent soil erosion by covering the ground with vegetation or mulch. Use Dr. Earth organic fertilizers to feed plants in your yard, garden and lawn to avoid applying water soluble Phosphorous.
We all share the same pool of water. Be conscientious in your gardening habits to ensure that future generations will enjoy a healthy, toxic-free environment. Poor water quality can impact the ability of fish and other wildlife to reproduce, feed and survive in the dynamic aquatic environment. It all starts in our own backyard and ends in a large body of water. Please act as a responsible steward of our environment.
Milo Lou Shammas
President and Chief Scientist
Dr. Earth, Inc.
Organic single ingredient fertilizers:
Organic single ingredient fertilizers:
Alfalfa Meal: 2-1-2 Contains Magnesium as well as a fatty growth stimulant called triacetate.
Bat Guano: 10-3-1 A fast acting Nitrogen providing a great fertilizer for all plants.
Blood Meal: 13-0-0 Repels Deer. A Fast acting Nitrogen providing a great fertilizer for all plants.
Bone Meal: 3-15-0 A great root and fruit starter. A good source of organic phosphorous and calcium. Contains trace elements. Provides long term and short term benefits.
Cottonseed Meal: 5-2-1 Good for acid loving plants. Good for balancing Alkaline high pH in the soil.
Feather Meal: 12-0-0 A good steady source of Nitrogen over an extended period of time. Excellent for foliage plants, herbs, tropical plants, etc.
Fishbone Meal: 3-18-0 Good source of organic Phosphorous and Calcium. Good for feeding roots, buds, blooms and bulbs. High in trace elements.
Fish Meal: 9-4-1 A traditional source of primary nutrients. High in trace elements. Benefits all types of plants. Feeds over an extended period of time.
Kelp Meal: .6-.5-2.5 An excellent source of Potash. Good for vegetable gardens. Contains growth regulators, vitamins, minerals, hormones and enzymes.
Rock Phosphate: 0-2-0 Stimulates root growth. Good for phosphate
deficient soil.
Seaweed extract: 70 minerals, amino acids and nutrients, growth regulators that stimulate vigorous root development and plant growth as well as pest and disease tolerance
Lawn fertilizer: Ringer Lawn Restore 10-2-6 ingredients Hydrolyzed Poultry Feather Meal, Feather Meal, Bone Meal, Chilean Nitrate Soybean Meal, Potassium Sulfate, Proprietary Blend of Soil Microbes
Organic Blended fertilizers:
Bulb food: 3-15-2 fish bone meal, alfalfa meal, soft rock phosphate, feather meal and potassium sulfate.
Starter fertilizer: 2-4-2 alfalfa meal, fish bone meal, feather meal, potassium sulfate and seaweed extract.
Rose and flower fertilizer: 5-7-2 cottonseed meal, fish bone meal, fish meal, alfalfa meal, kelp meal, potassium sulfate, phosphate and seaweed extract.
Azalea, Camellia and Gardenia, Hydrangeas, evergreens fertilizer, all acid loving plants: 4-5-4 Cottonseed meal, fish bone meal, alfalfa meal, feather meal, kelp meal, potassium sulfate and seaweed extract.
Tomato, vegetable and herb fertilizer: 5-7-4 Fish bone meal, feather meal, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, phosphate, fish meal, potassium sulfate, humic acid, seaweed extract.
Flower garden fertilizer bedding plants: 4-8-4 Alfalfa meal, fish bone meal, feather meal potassium sulfate, phosphate, seaweed extract.
Fruit tree fertilizer: 7-4-2 Feather meal, fish bone meal, kelp meal, cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, rock phosphate, potassium sulfate, seaweed extract.
Palm, tropical and Hibiscus fertilizer: 6-4-6 feather meal, fish bone meal, potassium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, cottonseed meal, seaweed extract.
Here is a great basic recipe to use for your rose fertilizer. The amount is per medium-sized bush:
1 cup bone meal or superphosphate (0-20-0)
1 cup cottonseed meal
1/2 cup blood meal
1/2 cup fish meal
1/2 cup Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate)
To apply the fertilizer to your rosebushes, first water the area liberally. Then apply the mixture evenly on the ground, out to the perimeter of the bush. Rake it lightly into the top couple inches of soil, then water again.
For newly planted bare root rosebushes, care must be taken not to burn the new roots. For these bushes, wait until after the plant has produced its first blooms to apply fertilizer. Water well first, apply the fertilizer and water well again. You may now begin a regular feeding program, but take a little extra caution - use weaker strength fertilizers on a more frequent basis for a safe, adequate food supply.
Alfalfa Meal: 2-1-2 Contains Magnesium as well as a fatty growth stimulant called triacetate.
Bat Guano: 10-3-1 A fast acting Nitrogen providing a great fertilizer for all plants.
Blood Meal: 13-0-0 Repels Deer. A Fast acting Nitrogen providing a great fertilizer for all plants.
Bone Meal: 3-15-0 A great root and fruit starter. A good source of organic phosphorous and calcium. Contains trace elements. Provides long term and short term benefits.
Cottonseed Meal: 5-2-1 Good for acid loving plants. Good for balancing Alkaline high pH in the soil.
Feather Meal: 12-0-0 A good steady source of Nitrogen over an extended period of time. Excellent for foliage plants, herbs, tropical plants, etc.
Fishbone Meal: 3-18-0 Good source of organic Phosphorous and Calcium. Good for feeding roots, buds, blooms and bulbs. High in trace elements.
Fish Meal: 9-4-1 A traditional source of primary nutrients. High in trace elements. Benefits all types of plants. Feeds over an extended period of time.
Kelp Meal: .6-.5-2.5 An excellent source of Potash. Good for vegetable gardens. Contains growth regulators, vitamins, minerals, hormones and enzymes.
Rock Phosphate: 0-2-0 Stimulates root growth. Good for phosphate
deficient soil.
Seaweed extract: 70 minerals, amino acids and nutrients, growth regulators that stimulate vigorous root development and plant growth as well as pest and disease tolerance
Lawn fertilizer: Ringer Lawn Restore 10-2-6 ingredients Hydrolyzed Poultry Feather Meal, Feather Meal, Bone Meal, Chilean Nitrate Soybean Meal, Potassium Sulfate, Proprietary Blend of Soil Microbes
Organic Blended fertilizers:
Bulb food: 3-15-2 fish bone meal, alfalfa meal, soft rock phosphate, feather meal and potassium sulfate.
Starter fertilizer: 2-4-2 alfalfa meal, fish bone meal, feather meal, potassium sulfate and seaweed extract.
Rose and flower fertilizer: 5-7-2 cottonseed meal, fish bone meal, fish meal, alfalfa meal, kelp meal, potassium sulfate, phosphate and seaweed extract.
Azalea, Camellia and Gardenia, Hydrangeas, evergreens fertilizer, all acid loving plants: 4-5-4 Cottonseed meal, fish bone meal, alfalfa meal, feather meal, kelp meal, potassium sulfate and seaweed extract.
Tomato, vegetable and herb fertilizer: 5-7-4 Fish bone meal, feather meal, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, phosphate, fish meal, potassium sulfate, humic acid, seaweed extract.
Flower garden fertilizer bedding plants: 4-8-4 Alfalfa meal, fish bone meal, feather meal potassium sulfate, phosphate, seaweed extract.
Fruit tree fertilizer: 7-4-2 Feather meal, fish bone meal, kelp meal, cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, rock phosphate, potassium sulfate, seaweed extract.
Palm, tropical and Hibiscus fertilizer: 6-4-6 feather meal, fish bone meal, potassium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, cottonseed meal, seaweed extract.
Here is a great basic recipe to use for your rose fertilizer. The amount is per medium-sized bush:
1 cup bone meal or superphosphate (0-20-0)
1 cup cottonseed meal
1/2 cup blood meal
1/2 cup fish meal
1/2 cup Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate)
To apply the fertilizer to your rosebushes, first water the area liberally. Then apply the mixture evenly on the ground, out to the perimeter of the bush. Rake it lightly into the top couple inches of soil, then water again.
For newly planted bare root rosebushes, care must be taken not to burn the new roots. For these bushes, wait until after the plant has produced its first blooms to apply fertilizer. Water well first, apply the fertilizer and water well again. You may now begin a regular feeding program, but take a little extra caution - use weaker strength fertilizers on a more frequent basis for a safe, adequate food supply.
Flowers by month
Flowers, colors and gemstones by month:
January: Carnation associated with fascination, which is a fitting sentiment for the freshness of the new year. Color is red, stone is a garnet.
February: Iris represents faith, wisdom and hope. Color is purple, stone is amethyst.
March: Daffodil one of the first flowers of spring and a classic symbol of rebirth and rejuvenation. Color is blue, stone is aquamarine.
April: Daisy is associated with innocence. Color is white, stone is the diamond.
May: Lily represents purity Color is green, stone is emerald.
June: Rose, white, pearl
July: Larkspur is associated with light heartedness and levity. The color is red, stone is ruby.
August: Gladiolus, named after the sword of the gladiator, they carry a meaning of strength and sincerity. Color is pale green, stone is peridot.
September: Aster represents daintiness and love. Color is deep blue/indigo, stone is sapphire.
October: Marigold is associated with affection. Color is multi-colors, stone is opal.
November: Chrysanthemum represents cheerfulness. Color is yellow, stone is topaz.
December: Poinsettia symbolizes success and good cheer. Color is blue, stone is turquoise.
January: Carnation associated with fascination, which is a fitting sentiment for the freshness of the new year. Color is red, stone is a garnet.
February: Iris represents faith, wisdom and hope. Color is purple, stone is amethyst.
March: Daffodil one of the first flowers of spring and a classic symbol of rebirth and rejuvenation. Color is blue, stone is aquamarine.
April: Daisy is associated with innocence. Color is white, stone is the diamond.
May: Lily represents purity Color is green, stone is emerald.
June: Rose, white, pearl
July: Larkspur is associated with light heartedness and levity. The color is red, stone is ruby.
August: Gladiolus, named after the sword of the gladiator, they carry a meaning of strength and sincerity. Color is pale green, stone is peridot.
September: Aster represents daintiness and love. Color is deep blue/indigo, stone is sapphire.
October: Marigold is associated with affection. Color is multi-colors, stone is opal.
November: Chrysanthemum represents cheerfulness. Color is yellow, stone is topaz.
December: Poinsettia symbolizes success and good cheer. Color is blue, stone is turquoise.
Testing your soil's PH
Testing your soil’s pH
For a better lawn or garden, start with a soil test. Testing your soil allows you to:
Select the right plants for your garden—A pH test, for example, determines how acid/alkaline your soil is. 7 is neutral. Southern western United States’ soil is typically 7.5-8, which is alkaline high.
Remedy your soil problems by determining what key elements are missing from your soil.
Monitor nutrients—Nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium are all needed for plant growth, color and blooming.
Soil test kits are available at most garden centers. These kits allow you to get an immediate analysis of your soil's pH.
Your local agricultural extension office will also test your soil sample for pH and nutrient levels (usually for a small fee). Most offices provide you with a sterile container for your sample and a form to answer questions about your garden, where you live and the plants you wish to grow. The soil analysis usually takes a few weeks to get back to you. The analysis includes detailed results and suggested amendments specific to your region. Ventura County office is 805-645-1451. L.A is 562-622-0433.
How to test the soil
You will need:
Clean bucket
Garden trowel
Clean container
Newspaper
Steps:
Thoroughly clean the tools you are using to collect the soil sample.
In the planting area, dig five holes 6-8" deep.
Take a 1/2" slice along the side of a hole and place it in the bucket. Repeat this process for all holes.
Collect samples from different areas that will be growing similar plants.
Mix the soil in the bucket. Spread the soil on a newspaper to dry out. Collect a pint for your sample.
Helpful Hints:
The best time to test your soil is in the late fall or early spring. This gives you the time to make adjustments before you plant your garden, since soil corrections may take a few months to become effective.
Wet soil can give a false test reading. Be sure to take the sample when the soil is fairly dry. You may want to check your soil more than once to verify your results.
#What do the results mean?
Result Correction
High pH Soils with a high pH are alkaline. To lower pH, add sulfur into the soil surrounding the existing plants or into new planting beds.
Low pH A low pH reading is an indication that your soil is too acidic. To correct the problem, add lime to the soil and mix well.
Low nitrogen This is a common problem with soil. Use synthetic or natural, nitrogen-rich fertilizers according to the rate suggested by the manufacturer.
High nitrogen High nitrogen levels are usually the result of soils that have been over-fertilized. Water the soil well and stop adding fertilizer for several months.
Low phosphorus Mix superphosphate or bone meal into your garden soil, making sure to mix these amendments into the soil thoroughly.
High phosphorous This problem is usually caused by too much high-phosphate fertilizer. Do not use phosphorous-rich fertilizer for two years, and grow an abundance of plants to use up the excess.
Low potassium Work in potash or wood ashes. Avoid using wood ashes around acid-loving plants because these are alkaline and may diminish the growth of the plants.
High potassium Add nitrogen and phosphorous to help balance the soil, but do not add potassium-rich fertilizers or soil amendments for two to three years.
Poor drainage Heavy clay soil tends to drain poorly. Thoroughly mix in peat moss, compost or other organic materials to help loosen the soil.
Too much drainage Sandy soil drains too quickly to hold necessary nutrients. Add organic materials to remedy soil that drains too quickly, just as you would for poor drainage conditions.
pH What to do
6.0
Apply 20 pounds of lime per 1000 square feet
5.5
Apply 25 pounds of lime per 1000 square feet. At least a month later, add another 20 pounds of lime per square feet.
7.5 Apply 10 pounds of gardener's sulfur per 1000 square feet
8.0
Apply 20 pounds of gardener's sulfur per 1000 square feet
8.5
Apply 40 pounds of gardener's sulfur per 1000 square feet
For a better lawn or garden, start with a soil test. Testing your soil allows you to:
Select the right plants for your garden—A pH test, for example, determines how acid/alkaline your soil is. 7 is neutral. Southern western United States’ soil is typically 7.5-8, which is alkaline high.
Remedy your soil problems by determining what key elements are missing from your soil.
Monitor nutrients—Nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium are all needed for plant growth, color and blooming.
Soil test kits are available at most garden centers. These kits allow you to get an immediate analysis of your soil's pH.
Your local agricultural extension office will also test your soil sample for pH and nutrient levels (usually for a small fee). Most offices provide you with a sterile container for your sample and a form to answer questions about your garden, where you live and the plants you wish to grow. The soil analysis usually takes a few weeks to get back to you. The analysis includes detailed results and suggested amendments specific to your region. Ventura County office is 805-645-1451. L.A is 562-622-0433.
How to test the soil
You will need:
Clean bucket
Garden trowel
Clean container
Newspaper
Steps:
Thoroughly clean the tools you are using to collect the soil sample.
In the planting area, dig five holes 6-8" deep.
Take a 1/2" slice along the side of a hole and place it in the bucket. Repeat this process for all holes.
Collect samples from different areas that will be growing similar plants.
Mix the soil in the bucket. Spread the soil on a newspaper to dry out. Collect a pint for your sample.
Helpful Hints:
The best time to test your soil is in the late fall or early spring. This gives you the time to make adjustments before you plant your garden, since soil corrections may take a few months to become effective.
Wet soil can give a false test reading. Be sure to take the sample when the soil is fairly dry. You may want to check your soil more than once to verify your results.
#What do the results mean?
Result Correction
High pH Soils with a high pH are alkaline. To lower pH, add sulfur into the soil surrounding the existing plants or into new planting beds.
Low pH A low pH reading is an indication that your soil is too acidic. To correct the problem, add lime to the soil and mix well.
Low nitrogen This is a common problem with soil. Use synthetic or natural, nitrogen-rich fertilizers according to the rate suggested by the manufacturer.
High nitrogen High nitrogen levels are usually the result of soils that have been over-fertilized. Water the soil well and stop adding fertilizer for several months.
Low phosphorus Mix superphosphate or bone meal into your garden soil, making sure to mix these amendments into the soil thoroughly.
High phosphorous This problem is usually caused by too much high-phosphate fertilizer. Do not use phosphorous-rich fertilizer for two years, and grow an abundance of plants to use up the excess.
Low potassium Work in potash or wood ashes. Avoid using wood ashes around acid-loving plants because these are alkaline and may diminish the growth of the plants.
High potassium Add nitrogen and phosphorous to help balance the soil, but do not add potassium-rich fertilizers or soil amendments for two to three years.
Poor drainage Heavy clay soil tends to drain poorly. Thoroughly mix in peat moss, compost or other organic materials to help loosen the soil.
Too much drainage Sandy soil drains too quickly to hold necessary nutrients. Add organic materials to remedy soil that drains too quickly, just as you would for poor drainage conditions.
pH What to do
6.0
Apply 20 pounds of lime per 1000 square feet
5.5
Apply 25 pounds of lime per 1000 square feet. At least a month later, add another 20 pounds of lime per square feet.
7.5 Apply 10 pounds of gardener's sulfur per 1000 square feet
8.0
Apply 20 pounds of gardener's sulfur per 1000 square feet
8.5
Apply 40 pounds of gardener's sulfur per 1000 square feet
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